Automotive

Ethos Car Care Wheel Cleaner


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Ethos Car Care Wheel Cleaner https://amzn.to/3cVnboQ

Meguiar's Gold Class Car Shampoo https://amzn.to/2Yk6cab

Chemical Guys Wheel Woolies Brushes https://amzn.to/37jBAtr

The Rag Company Cyclone Microfiber Wash Mitts https://amzn.to/3cSFjPY

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

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Mess free Oil Changes with an Oil Extractor

I recently came across the topic of doing an oil change with an oil extractor. This essentially allows you to suck the oil out of an engine through the dipstick channel. As a result, there is less chance of making a mess and if you have easy access to the oil filter, you don’t even have to lift the car and this makes the entire process safer.

Most of the extractors that I’ve seen are manual in the sense that you have to use a hand pump to create a vacuum that sucks the oil out. Electronic extractors are available but they are generally more expensive. Well, after some looking around, I found an electronic extractor that only costs about $20.

My particular extractor is listed under the name YaeTek but it seems like this product is sold wholesale and various vendors just buy and resell them under whatever name they feel like. I bought this YaeTek extractor because it was the cheapest version that I could find. If you’re interested in this particular device, I’ll include a link below that leads to this exact one but if you find something that looks similar and is cheaper, just go with that because they’re all the same.

When you buy this product it comes dissembled. We get the extractor itself with the attached battery terminal leads. We also get two clear hoses and hose clamps. The hoses attach to either side of the extractor and are held in place by the hose clamps.

For the initial trial, I tested the extractor out on my lawnmower. I was actually pretty excited about this because if you’ve never changed a push lawn mower’s oil before, this typically requires you to turn the entire lawnmower on its side and drain the oil through the oil filler neck. The whole process is just kind of a pain so if I can get the oil out and have the lawnmower sit normally, that’ll be great.

With an oil extractor, the idea is that oil is sucked through one end and out the other. So to use the extractor, we just have to put the suction hose into the dipstick channel or in my case the oil filler neck and the other hose into the container that will hold the old used oil. Then just turn the extractor on and watch the oil come out. Make sure that the suction hose reaches the bottom of the oil pan.

Remember, warm oil is going to flow faster than cold oil so it’s a good idea to run the engine and let it warm up prior to doing an oil change. How fast the oil extractor empties out an engine is largely going to depend on the oil capacity. On my lawnmower that holds less than one-third of a quart, the process took less than 2 minutes. When using an oil extractor, you know that the job is complete when you hear gurgling from the suction tube, like when you suck liquid through a straw and there’s only a few droplets at the bottom. When this happens, you can try pulling and pushing on the tube a few times to see try and get anything that’s leftover.

For my test, I used an external battery. This is because the oil extractor requires 12V power. The extractor is intended to be used with the battery in the vehicle that you’re doing an oil change on but my lawnmower doesn’t have a battery so I needed an external source of power. But realistically, I would still use a spare battery to not put any excess stress on my car’s battery when it’s powered off.

And there you have it, a very simple, easy, and mess-free approach to doing an oil change. I personally really like the idea of doing an oil change like this because it makes the chances of making mess go way down. Also, if you have a car that has a top-mounted oil filter or just one that’s easily accessible, you won’t even have to lift the car and put it on jack stands. The whole process is just much simpler.

The main argument that I’ve seen against using an extractor is the possibility of it leaving some oil behind in the pan. I personally feel that some oil is going to be left behind no matter how you change the oil. Some oil pans are just poorly designed and will leave oil behind even when the car is on stands and oil is drained through the drain plug. At the end of the day, it just comes down to what you’re comfortable with. It’s your car, do what you want with it. I for sure will continue to use the extractor on my lawnmower and will experiment with my cars in the future when the time comes for an oil change.


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YaeTek Oil Extractor https://amzn.to/3fbaoA9

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Air Power America 5060TS Topsider https://amzn.to/2UqAVBs


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Covercraft UVS100 Premier Series Custom Sunscreen for the Toyota Supra MKV

I park my car outside so it constantly gets beat by the sun’s UV rays. I apply interior protectant but one thing that I really like to have is a sunscreen. It’s a simple accessory that’s quite effective.

When I had my Tacomas, I used a Covercraft UVS100 Premier Series sunscreen. The overall experience was good. The Covercraft sunscreen fit the Tacoma well and it looked pretty good so when it was time to buy one for the Supra, going with Covercraft again was an easy decision.

IMG_3171.JPG

The specific sunshade that I purchased is the UVS100 Premier Series in the chrome camouflage finish part number UV11657EC. This is listed at $83. There is a normal UVS100 sunshade for $70 and from what I understand, the main differences between the two is that the Premier Series has a black binding whereas the standard has grey, the Premier Series has some more premium color options, and the Premier Series comes with the optional storage bag which costs $14. I really like the chrome camouflage finish so the Premier Series was the obvious option.

These Covercraft sunscreens are advertised as being “Custom Patterned for a Perfect Fit”. I would say that the overall fitment is pretty good. However, the sunscreen that I received does seem to be a bit short on the sides. This is interesting because it was actually a bit difficult to get the sides positioned because they felt too long at first. But when I got them in place, there is a small gap on either side. This is expected to be able to make the screen fit but the gap just seems to be larger than my Tacoma’s sunscreen.

IMG_3165.JPG

Getting the sunscreen in place was somewhat difficult in general. This is because I had to work around the Supra’s infotainment system and the HUD projector. The infotainment system sticks up right in the middle of the dash so I had to maneuver around it in an interior that’s not all the big to start with. Then the HUD projector creates a bump in the dash that causes the sunscreen to be more snug on the driver’s side than the passenger’s. These things made positioning the sunscreen a bit annoying but I’m sure that with some experience, the process will go by more quickly.

If I had to complain about something, it would have to be quality control. My sunscreen arrived with a few issues. First, it looks like the adhesive that they used for the interior lining is not holding in place properly and is wrinkling. Second, the side that faces out looks like someone dropped a strip of adhesive on it. I’ll be contacting Covercraft about these things to see what they say about the situation.

Overall, I’m enjoying this purchase. At the end of the day, the Covercraft sunscreen will help to protect my Supra’s interior and that’s all I care about.


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How to jack the Toyota Supra and put it on jack Stands

The new A90 Supra is one of those cars that actually needs a tutorial on how to jack it up and put it on jack stands because there seems to be some confusion.

Before we get started, I wanted to show you the jack and stand positions as indicated by Toyota in the official workshop manual. I’ve seen people argue about where you can and cannot jack from so here’s the official word from the manufacturer.

Let’s get started with jacking up the front. We’re going to first take a floor jack and position it towards the middle of the front lip. This isn’t absolutely necessary but when working with cars that sit lower, it’s a good idea to have a low profile jack. If you have some 2x4’s around or something that you can drive up on, this will also help with clearance and make it easier to see where to position the jack. If you’re going to jack up both the front and rear, start with the front as there is less clearance room. If you start at the rear, the front is going to dip forward, making it much harder to jack the front up. If you’re only jacking up one end, remember to place a wheel chock at the opposite end to help prevent the car from accident rolling.

Both the front and rear jack positions are essentially positioned between the wheels and are about 36” from either bumper. This means that unless you have an extremely long jack, you’re going to have to lower the jack handle all the way down and push the entire jack under the car.

At the front, we are going to position the jack at this circular indentation. Be sure to position at the indent with the bolt, not the black plastic oil pan cover. Once the jack is in place, it’s time to pump the handle and raise the car. Take note that because we had to lower the handle all the way down to fit under the car, there is going to be very little clearance to pump the handle. It’s only going to be able to move a few centimeters at a time. Just keep at it and the car will raise little by little. As the car raises, there will be more clearance room for the handle and everything will lift much quicker.

Once the car is at the appropriate height, we can take our jack stands and position them under the safety stand supports. The jack stand locations are indicated on the side skirts by little arrow markers. If you’re unaware, the Supra uses a support housing similar to many other BMW and Mini Coopers. This housing is plastic and can warp/deform if it is used improperly. To support my Supra, I use an adapter that attaches to my jack stands and fits perfectly into the hollow section of the plastic housing. If you’d like to learn more about this adapter, I’ve made a separate post dedicated to it. I highly suggest that you check that out and invest in the adapters as they are the best way to support the Supra that I’ve seen. After the jack stands are positioned properly under the plastic supports, it’s just a matter of lowering the floor jack and letting the Supra rest on the jack stands.

Let’s move on to the rear. The initial setup is going to be the same. We have to lower the jack handle all the way down and push the entire floor jack under the car. At the rear, we are going to be jacking up from the rear differential. This is very important. You want to jack up from the black portion of the diff, NOT from the silver fins. If you lift from the fins, there’s a good chance that they’ll be crushed under the weight and you’ll have to spend money on repairs. So remember, move the jack past the silver fins and jack up form the black section. Again because we have to lower the handle all the way down and because there’s little clearance, we’re going to have to do a bunch of micro pumps to get the lift started before there’s enough room to really pump the jack. When you’ve reached the desired height, position the jack stands under the stand supports and lower the jack.

And that’s it. The Supra is now properly seated on some jack stands. Not going to lie, this is a pretty tedious process and I would have to say that the A90 Supra is the most annoying car that I’ve ever had to put on jack stands. But once you understand the process, things go by pretty quickly. Just be sure to jack from the appropriate points so you don’t end up inflicting damage to your own car.


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Floor Jack https://amzn.to/2BBbtCI
Torin BIG RED Double Locking Jack Stands T43002A https://amzn.to/36LrDVF
Toyota Supra / BMW / Mini Cooper Jack Stand Adapters: https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=forsvaraengineering&_armrs=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC2.A0.H0.Xbmw.TRS2&_nkw=bmw&_sacat=0


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Toyota Supra / BMW / Mini Cooper Jack Stand Adapters

With Toyota’s collaboration to make the Supra with BMW, comes some interesting BMW auto making decisions. One of these things is the locations where you’re supposed to put the jack stands.

If we go under the Supra we’ll see that there are four hollowed-out plastic rectangles. This is where we’re supposed to put jack stands or lift the Supra from if we’re using a car lift. The problem is that you shouldn’t really use them as is.

First, if you take a floor jack and lift up from one of these points, there’s a good chance that the edges of the plastic will damage and deform. Second, if we try to use a normal jack stand with a curved saddle, then things don’t exactly fit and again could damage the jack stand location. I’ve seen people, stick one edge of the saddle’s curve in the hole and call it good. All I can say is that I personally wouldn’t do that.

So, what are we to do. After looking around, one of the most common solutions is to use a BMW/Mini Cooper jack pad. These are typically made from rubber or aluminum. These pads work when you use a floor jack because they have a flat section to hold the pad. They don’t exactly work with a jack stand unless the stand also has a flat surface like these ESCO jack stands. The ESCO stands with a jack pad seem to be a good approach but it’s an expensive one. Each stand costs about $55, then we also have to factor in the cost of the jack pads. So, we’re essentially looking at between $200-$300 or even more, just for a four-point jack stand setup. I just think that’s way too much for what it is so it was back to searching for something else.

After some digging on eBay, I found Forsvara Engineering who makes adapters for the jack stands that I already owned. This seemed to be exactly what I was looking for.

So here they are, the BMW/Mini Cooper/Toyota Supra jack stand adapters. Installation of these adapters is very straightforward. You essentially just slip the adapter over the saddle of the jack stand and tighten it down with the included bolts. Forsvara Engineering makes a variety of different adapters for some common jack stands. If you have something different, they also have two universal designs. Take this Harbor Freight Pittsburg jack stand. Forsvara makes a few different Pittsburg specific adapters, but just not for this particular model number so I had to go with a universal design. The difference between the universal adapter and the model-specific adapter is that the universal adapter comes in two pieces that clamp together around the jack stand saddle rather than one piece that slips on. The universal adapter is available in a compact and standard size. The sizes are to accommodate different sized saddles.

Take a look at them in action. With the Forsvara adapters, we now have jack stands that are perfectly suited to hold the Toyota Supra and any other BMW or Mini Cooper that uses a similar plastic post.

I can’t tell you how happy I am with these adapters. I’ve seen some sketchy setups and am so glad that to have found these adapters. This right here has got to be the best jack stand set up for the BMW jack stand supports.

If you’re planning to do your own services on the Supra, this is one of the best investments in my opinion. Check out Forsvara Engineering and support what they do. If you’re interested in anything mentioned in this post, links to everything are listed below.


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Forsvara Engineering eBay Store https://www.ebay.com/sch/forsvaraengineering/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
ESCO Jack Stands https://amzn.to/2U0abHP
BMW Jack Pads https://amzn.to/307Bggb


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