NEVER Buying from Robert Larson Toyota of Tacoma Again

I recently purchased a 2019 Toyota Tacoma from Robert Larson Toyota of Tacoma in Lakewood, WA. At the time, everything seemed like sunshine and rainbows but today, I’d like to share with you the story of how purchasing my dream truck turned out to be possibly the worst buying experience that I’ve ever had and how I was scammed by this dealership.

Let’s start from the beginning. I had just purchased a 2019 Toyota Corolla Hatchback from this dealership and felt that I was in the position to buy another vehicle. I wanted to buy my favorite truck and that is the Toyota Tacoma. So, I returned the following day and went through with buying it. The overall purchasing experience was not bad. Everything went through, I purchased the truck and thought that it was all good.

After purchase, things started to slowly fall apart and issues came to light. The first thing was the condition of the truck at delivery. It had this dirt and gunk all over the body. From what I was told, new vehicles arrive with a protective wrap that is removed at the dealership. When left over time, the wrap develops dirt along the edges and that’s what it was that I was seeing. So they took the truck back and “detailed” it again only for some spots to be overlooked and there to still be gunk on the truck. I was told to not worry about it because when I bring my car in for Cilajet, the technician would have to completely detail the truck and all of the gunk would be gone.

At this point, I have to step back and talk about Cilajet. In short, this is a paint sealant. The manufacturer, of course, makes a lot of claims about their product and how amazing it is. I never heard about Cilajet prior to buying the Corolla and the Tacoma. I’m one of those people who don’t believe in extended warranties. I buy the vehicle, gamble with what I get and usually that works out. But surprisingly, because this is my dream truck and I intend to keep it until it breaks down, I bought all the important extended warranties. I bought a warranty to protect the mechanical components. I bought a warranty to cover the tires, keys, dents and dings. I bought a warranty to cover all the electrical because a lot of the truck is electronically controlled. I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to fix the truck myself if something were to happen so better to be safe than sorry. I essentially bought all the warranties to cover the internals of the vehicle. At this point, all there was left is the to cover the cosmetics. This is how I was sold on Cilajet. When I was in the financing office, I was told that if I got Cilajet, the entire truck would be protected from scratches. As in, if I got a scratch for ANY reason, even if someone comes up and keys the truck, Toyota would take it in and fix the issue. I made sure that this was the case before buying and made sure that multiple people heard what was being promised. I wanted my truck to be protected from scratches. I was assured that this is so, so I purchased the Cilajet. Well, shortly after contacting Cilajet itself, I found out that this isn’t true. Cilajet will cover nothing near that. It’s a paint sealant so it’ll cover defects that relate to that subject. You can do your own research but just know that they don’t cover scratches like what I was looking for and was told. So, that was the first major red flag. Funny enough, when I purchased all of these warranties, I was told that if I ended up not wanting them, I can come back any time and get a pro-rated refund. Well, can you guess what was non-refundable? Cilajet.

Another issue that I had with the Cilajet was that it wasn’t applied properly. I’m no expert on this but from what I’ve seen, it’s applied like a wax. You put it on the paint and buff it in. Remember earlier when I told you about how there was gunk from the protective wrap on my car and how it was supposed to be cleaned when I got the Cilajet applied? The gunk turned out to be an indicator of the poor application of Cilajet. I was looking at the car after Cilajet was applied and remnants fo the gunk was still there. This shows that the Cilajet wasn’t thoroughly applied. I had to schedule for reapplication but I think that they just redid the spot that I showed them, the spot where the gunk was because the first time around, application took 4 hours. This time along with other services, it took less than 2 hours. I have my doubts about what was actually done. Since I paid for it, I would love to have the Cilajet properly installed but again it has to be buffed into the finish. A car only has so much clear coat. I don’t want them to keep going at my finish especially when I don’t know what’s actually done since the technician can’t get it right. As far as the Cilajet, it is what it is. I took a major loss by paying the hundreds for it and I can’t do anything about it now. But the problems don’t stop there.

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I was checking out the Tacoma and noticed something weird. My driver window wouldn’t fully go up. It was siting just below the weather stripping and there was a noticeable gap. When I touched the window’s glass, it was actually loose. It shifted around easily. I checked the other windows and this wasn’t happening anywhere else. This is concerning because I’m in Washington. This state is known for the rain and having a window that doesn’t close all the way isn’t exactly what you want. There was actually a big thunderstorm the night that I noticed the gap and I had to tape the window up. Imagine that, taping up the window of a car you just bought.

After noticing this, I began to really inspect the car. I removed the front bumper license plate bracket and noticed that it was hiding a deep gouge in the bumper. I went under the frame and more gouges and even surface rust. SURFACE RUST ON A BRAND NEW TRUCK?!?! ON THE FRAME!!!

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Let me also point out that the truck only has about 100 miles on it. 50 of which was before I even bought it, from other test drivers. Even in the 50 miles that I’ve put on it, I’ve had to go back and forth from the dealership about 7 times to deal with all the issues so I’ve only done about 20 miles worth of personal driving. Can you imagine having these kind of issues when you’ve only had a car for 20 miles?

At this point, I was done. I took the truck to the dealership and showed them the problems. They scheduled me for the next day. The window was fixed and the minor Cilajet reapplication was done. I asked about the frame and the bumper. Well, it turns out that this truck was a dealer trade. This means that they got the truck from another dealership to sell. When Toyota of Tacoma got the truck, they didn’t do an exception on it like they were supposed to. I assume that they just looked at it, said yeah it’s a new truck, its good for sale. They sold it to the next person that wanted it and that just happened to be me. They admit that they didn’t do an inspection, but said that nothing can be proven about the damages. They can’t prove that the other dealership cause the damage, the can’t prove that it was damaged at their dealership and they can’t prove that I didn’t cause the damage after purchase. I can understand this train of thought, but had Toyota of Tacoma actually inspected the vehicle, we would know where the damages came from and under who’s ownership. At the end of the day, because they didn’t do a proper inspection, like they are supposed to, they didn’t know about the damages so they couldn’t tell me about it. I bought this truck without knowing it’s actual condition and because of the dealership’s mistake, I’m paying for it. I now have to get the rust removed and treated. I now have to deal with a damaged bumper. Now, instead of looking at the Tacoma and being happy that I got my dream truck, I see it as a reminder to never buy from Robert Larson Toyota of Tacoma again.


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There’s something else that I wanted to mention that didn’t fit into the timeline of the story above, so here it goes.

When I purchased the Tacoma, I got in the transaction a genuine Toyota bed mat. They didn’t have the mat in stock so ordered one in. It arrived and had chunks missing. It was as if something scraped really hard against it and took pieces out. I requested an exchange and they ordered another in.

The second mat arrived in even worse condition. Between the rubber layers of the mat are metal cords. The second mat was so damaged that the cords were visible in many locations. This is a problem because the cords could damage whatever you put on the mat. I requested for another exchange and the parts representative told me that “I can exchange it but I don’t know if it’ll be any better”. When I heard this, I was just amazed by the response. I was amazed that the quality control of this product was so bad that the rep didn’t think that it could get better than a mat that had the metal cords exposed.

Nevertheless, I wanted to see for myself so they ordered in a third mat. At this point, I told myself that I’m just going to take it no matter what. Well, it’s definitely not perfect. The third mat arrived with a bunch of discoloration and stains. It was a mess, but I took it. The dealership was obviously not going to take care of me.

It should also be noted that with all of these mats, the dealership never bothers to contact me when the mats arrive. I had to call back everyday and ask if the mat was available.

In hindsight, these experiences should’ve been a red flag and an indicator of the quality of service to come.


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Vemico 3rd Party Camera Batteries

It’s outrageous what original manufacturers charge for their branded batteries. This is why I’m a big proponent of 3rd party camera batteries and why I’ve always purchased them for my personal cameras. When a rep. for Vemico reached out to me for a possible review, I jumped on the opportunity because you can never have too many spares (especially if you use older Sony mirrorless cameras).

I currently use two types of Sony batteries, the NP-FW50 and the NP-FZ100. The NP-FW50 currently costs $49.99 each and the NP-FZ100 costs $78 each at the time of this post. My first Sony camera was the A7RII. One complaint often made about this camera is that it has poor battery life. This is simply because the NP-FW50 battery that it uses is small and the A7RII uses a lot of power. I currently own 7 NP-FW50 batteries and EASILY go through 4 batteries on a full day’s work. The A7RIII improved on battery life with its larger NP-FZ100 battery and I currently own 2 of them. I’ve been able to shoot an entire wedding with one battery with some intermittent charging during down time in between events. This larger battery is greatly appreciated but it comes at a cost. $78 per battery is a bit steep, which is why I only own 2.

This is where the Vemico batteries come in. The Vemico NP-FW50 battery set currently sells for $31.99 for TWO batteries, two battery cases, a dual battery charger, a UBS-C cable and a carrying case that holds everything. The Vemico NP-FZ100 battery set comes in a similar package and costs $52.99. Compared to OEM, the Vemico options are an absolute steal EVEN IF we were getting just the batteries, which we’re not. Even compared to other 3rd party battery manufacturers, Vemico’s prices are still very competitive if not better.

Over the years, I’ve tried quite a few batteries from different 3rd party manufacturers. Although they’ve all worked, I’ve never been overly satisfied. I’ve never done any scientific testing, but I’ve always felt that the OEM batteries were better or have more of a charge. One thing to note about 3rd party batteries is that they very often will advertise a very high mAh capacity, higher than that of the OEM battery. This is great, but it’s often just false advertising and the batteries drain pretty quick. Again, I haven’t done any testing but this is how I feel after years of experience with my batteries. Even so, it is still cheaper to buy multiple 3rd party batteries than one OEM battery. You can buy more than enough 3rd party batteries to compensate for the difference in battery capacity.

The quick drain was something that I was also expecting with the Vemico batteries. I can’t vouch for their long term use as I’ve only been using them for a week, but from my initial uses, I can tell that these batteries work much better than the other 3rd party brands that I’ve tried. During usage, they seem to last much longer and the battery percentage indicator doesn’t drop as quick.

One thing that I’ve found interesting about the Vemico batteries is their ability to hold a charge when the camera is off. If you didn’t know, many Sony cameras continually draw power even when the camera isn’t on. This is frustrating because you can leave a fully charged battery in the camera for a few hours only to come back to a few percentage gone. This does not seem to be as big of a problem with the Vemico batteries. I’m currently typing this post about 7 hours after shooting 20 minutes worth of 4K video and the battery STILL shows 100%. This is great. Even with my OEM batteries, there is no doubt that the indicator would’ve dropped at least a few percent. *UPDATE* Over 24 hours later and the battery indicator still shows 100%.

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Another thing that I like quite a bit about these Vemico batteries is the overall presentation. Everything comes in a nice carrying case. Open up the case and you get more cases to hold the batteries. In the case of the NP-FW50 package, you even get precut foam to hold everything in place. The NP-FZ100 set didn’t come with the foam and this is likely because it’s a newer battery and Vemico reuses the same parts throughout there battery line and just didn’t have the foam for it. Either way, the carrying case and battery cases are a nice touch.

The included double battery charger is also appreciated. This is something that you typically have to purchase separately and costs around $10. I have way too many batteries to be using a single battery charger so this is a must! However, the one included is nothing new. I actually have one that’s very similar because these are mass produced chargers that manufacturers buy and slap their logos on. What’s different with this one is the USB-C interface. The charger that I already have uses a micro USB interface. Having USB-C here is a pain because it’s another cord to carry from what I already do for the other chargers but it’s nice to know that this interface will be future proof for awhile.

Overall, I’m pretty happy with these Vemico 3rd party batteries. I’ve been consistently using them and enjoy them as much as I can enjoy batteries. If you’re looking for a cheaper alternative to OEM batteries for your cameras, check out the options from Vemico.


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Vemico NP-FW50 Battery Charger Set https://amzn.to/2NLA9wa


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HOHEM iSteady Mobile+

A representative of HOHEM recently contacted me to see if I was interested in trying out their new smartphone gimbal, the iSteady Mobile+. At this point, I own and have tested quite of few gimbals and to be honest, I’m kind of tired of them. Unless something crazy comes out, I just kind of pass on them. Nevertheless, I wanted to see what this product was all about so I headed to the company’s official website. Then, I saw it. A fully featured smartphone gimbal that only costs $89. This would definitely be the cheapest gimbal that I ever tried so I wondered if it was any good. I told the rep to send it over and here it is, the HOHEM iSteady Mobile+.

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First, let’s take a look at the design of this product. It’s pretty straight forward and looks like many other smartphone gimbals. It’s fairly small and only slightly larger than my hand. This is nice because to me, the whole point of using a phone camera is because of the size and convenience. I want to impede this as little as possible so if I were to use a phone gimbal, it has to be as small as possible.

On the handle we get the gimbal’s controls. A controller wheel to adjust the gimbal’s parameters. A toggle switch which allows for focus and zoom adjustments. A button to toggle between the various gimbal modes. A button to start/stop recording and to take photos. A trigger to activate some more of the gimbal’s features (we’ll get to that in a moment).

Using the mode selector button on the front of the gimbal, we can toggle between 4 of the gimbal’s modes. With this, we can toggle between PF (pan follow), PTF (pan/tilt follow), AL (all lock), and AF (all follow).

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The trigger on the back allows for a few other uses. Holding it down, we get Sport Mode which increases power to the motors and allows it to react more quickly. This could be useful if you’re trying to follow a fast subject or you can use this feature to create in camera transitions like whip pans. Double tapping the trigger re-centers the motors to its initial position.

As with any modern gimbal that wants to stay in the loop, this gimbal also features inception mode and the ability to shoot in vertical orientation.

What surprises me about this gimbal is its inclusion of face/object tracking. Don’t get me wrong, this is not a new feature, but to see it in a product at this price is really appreciated. I actually like this feature quite a bit. I’ve tried vlogging with a phone in the past but have always found it difficult because I like to record with the rear cameras. I use an iPhone and none of them are currently able to shoot 4K video with the front facing camera. I only produce in 4K so using the front facing camera just doesn’t work for me. I’m used flipping the camera around to get 4k footage but the problem with the iPhone is that framing is a bit difficult when you do this. It’s not just holding the camera out like other cameras, but because of the way that the cameras are laid out, you have to kind of angle the phone a bit and there can be a learning curve to this. But with the iSteady Mobile+’s face detection, all I have to do is flip the gimbal around and it automatically centers me in the frame.

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Now, this gimbal is by no means perfect. In my short time with it, I’ve noticed some annoyances. First, this is really a gimbal for smaller smartphones, say an iPhone XS not a XS Max. The gimbal cannot balance a larger phone and falls to the left. The adjustment arm just doesn’t move to the right far enough. Another indication that this gimbal is really not for larger phones is the audio ques that you get when the gimbal is pushed. The motors will get really worked up and become very audible, even when you set them to maximum strength in the settings. Although I can still use my XS Max with this gimbal, it can be a struggle with certain modes as the gimbal tries to keep up with the weight.

Another issue that I have with this gimbal is the way that it pans. This kind of goes in hand with trying to do selfies with the rear camera. Many other gimbals have a way to activate selfie mode and the gimbal will actually spin the phone around. The iSteady Mobile+ does not. You have to manually do this one way or another. You would think that you just turn the gimbal around but the pan axis does something weird where it often gets caught somewhere in between and you’ll have to deal with it. If you need to do this, you’ll just have to play with the gimbal and figure out what works best for you. I sometimes use Sport Mode to make the pan axis move faster and trick itself into spinning around or I just hold the vertical bar and force it around. Either way, this is just a waste of time. HOHEM needs to add a selfie mode into the firmware.

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Finally, I think there is some work that needs to be done in the app. Right now, it’s just not very intuitive to me and I often find myself searching for features or trying to figure out how to do things. The menu and icons can be set up better. I also have a problem with just how small and close everything is. Just look at the icons for subject tracking and the focus/zoom selector (bottom left). They’re so small and when I try to activate these features, I find myself touching the bare screen and the app thinks that I’m trying to adjust exposure. This happens so often and just slows everything down. On the bright side, both this and the panning can realistically be fixed in firmware and I really hope that the people at HOHEM takes note and adjust these things.

This flap never stays in place

This flap never stays in place

To be honest, as a gimbal the HOHEM iSteady Mobile+ is nothing special. It doesn’t revolutionize the gimbal industry and really doesn’t give you anything different. The modes that the iSteady Mobile+ offers are pretty standard. They are the ones that pretty much every other gimbal provides. That’s not to say that that is a bad thing because these are the modes that you will most likely use. The inclusion of face/object tracking and vertical shooting is nice, but again, pretty standard nowadays. This makes the iSteady Mobile+ fall into the crowd and it is a big crowd when you have companies like DJI, Zhiyun and FeiyuTech dominating the market in every sector. But, what those other companies don’t have is a gimbal that has all the standard features and only costs $89.

If you were to ask me for a gimbal recommendation, I would typically reply by saying to research and see which one has the features that you want, but to also consider buying the cheapest option because all modern gimbals essentially do the same thing. In use, they all essentially run off the same modes. What you are really paying for are the minor features beyond using the gimbal for stabilized footage. You’re paying for the ability to add accessories, to fold down to a compact size, to be able to lock the various axis to make travel and balancing easier, and etc. But if you don’t need or want those things, you just want a cheap gimbal so you can go out and shoot video without getting shaky footage, then something like the iSteady Mobile+ is the gimbal for you.


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Tyger Auto TG-AM2T20048 Textured Black Side Step Rails Nerf Bars Compatible With 2005-2019 Tacoma Double Cab


Since buying this Toyota Tacoma, I’ve felt that the sides of the truck looked a bit bare and lacking. The obvious answer was to pick up a pair of sides steps and that’s just what I did. After some research, I decided on the Tyger Auto Star Armor Nerf Bars. The are just about as tough as it gets without going to full blown rock sliders.

For those interested in installing side steps on the 3rd gen. Tacomas, it is extremely straightforward. Under the Tacoma, near the outer edges of the doors, you’ll see what looks like plastic screws. If we take a screwdriver to these, they’ll reveal the pre-tapped threading in the truck’s body which is where the side steps will be attached to. There are 6 of these caps in total to be removed per side.

Once the plastic caps are removed, it’s just a matter of raising the nerf bars up and mounting them with the included hardware. Other nerf bars typically come in two main pieces, the brackets that attach to the truck and the actual bars, which attach to the brackets. These are easier to install because you can install the individual parts one piece at a time. The Tyger Star Armor nerf bars’ parts are all welded together, making one solid structure. This makes them slightly harder to install because it can be difficult to lift and bolt them in place by yourself. You may want to find something to prop them up with or find some help.

Once all 6 bolts are in place, you’re done and all there is to do is repeat on the other side.

I installed the Tyger Star Armor Nerf Bars on my 2019 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport. According to the manufacturer, these should fit all double cab Tacomas from 2005-2019. They also make an access cab version if that’s what you need.

These Tyger nerf bars feature a rust resistant E-coating textured black finish. This is definitely different from the other options on the market. Typically, it’s a lot of black or chrome with the other options. Although the Star Armor is black, the textured finish helps to differentiate the aesthetic.

At both ends of the bars are sealed end caps to keep dirt and water out. I’m actually a bit disappointed by this. I would’ve preferred to have welded metal end caps. I think that this would’ve been more secure and durable but what do I know. Maybe the plastic caps are the better way to go.

Then, of course, we can’t talk about these nerf bars without talking about the patented laser cut star armor step pad design. I have to be honest, I was holding off on buying these for some time. I knew that they’d work great but the step pad was preventing me from buying them. This is for two reason. One, this pad has no anti slip rubber like other nerf bars. These nerf bars are just pure metal and I have a feeling that on a wet day, they are going to get slippery. My second problem with the step pad is just how it looks. This laser cut design is just so in your face and, in my opinion, a bit gaudy. Had Tyger just went with a solid metal pad or a more simple design, I would’ve bought these in a heartbeat and there are others who feel the same based on some of the reviews that I’ve seen. If you share either of these concerns and still want these nerf bars, then I have the perfect mod for you. I found a product and it is essentially a self-adhesive anti-slip rubber mat. People use these on stairs, tiles, really anywhere that’s slippery. These pads come in various sizes so all we have to do is cut them to shape and stick it on top of the nerf bars and boom, killed two birds with one stone. I would suggest getting the 12” x 12” pad because it is a better value. However, if you want a little less cutting work, buy the 4” variations as this width is perfect for the step pad.

Overall, I would say that these nerf bars look great on the truck. They give you a different look than the other options on the market. They look so mean. Traditional nerf bars just give you a single tube whereas here, we have multiple tubes welded together to create one single structure. Because of their construction, these nerf bars are actually more robust and have a weight capacity of 500 lbs per side. This product is really like a toned down rock slider.

What I really like about these nerf bars and one of my main reason for buying them is the width. Manufacturer specs say that we get 6.44 inches from edge to edge. I was looking for something wider because to me, aside from making the truck look better and allowing you to get in and out easier, nerf bars can provide a form of protection against side impacts. Imagine you’re in a parking lot and someone opens their door, slamming into your car. Just the worst. But with some wider nerf bars, you have a chance of the doors slamming into the bars and away from the finish. These were the widest nerf bars that I could find and they’re looking like they’ll be pretty protective but only time will tell.

And there you have it, the Tyger Star Armor nerf bars for the Toyota Tacoma. A great product that I do not mind recommending.


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17 in. x 4 in. Self-Adhesive Rubber Safety Mat with Tread Surface https://amzn.to/2NHyB6p

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Why I bought a 2019 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport

Over the past few years, I’ve amassed a few cars in the driveway and it was time get rid of everything. I got down to two cars, my Ford Ranger and Ford Mustang. I traded the Ranger in and got a Toyota Corolla Hatchback XSE. I knew that I was getting rid of the Ranger for something else, I didn’t know it was going to be the Corolla, but it is done. While I was at the dealership, I had the urge for another purchase, a Toyota Tacoma.

Now, let me preface this by saying that the Toyota Tacoma is possibly my favorite vehicle that normal working class person could buy. Don’t get me wrong, it’s an expensive truck but it is obtainable and let me be the prime example of that. I never really thought that I’d be able to buy one new off the lot but the timing was right. With the purchase of the Corolla, I built a rapport with the salesman and financing manager so I felt that I could, perhaps, squeeze in something bigger. I also had the Mustang that I could trade in to help with the cost. Everything was in place. Now is the time to do this. So, two cars in two days. I bought the 2019 Toyota Corolla Hatchback XSE for practical purposes and I bought the 2019 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport to fulfill a very long fantasy. I bought my dream car.

Today, I wanted to break down this purchase and talk about why I went with this particular truck because I feel that it is pretty specific build. This is not a post breaking down every little detail about the various Tacomas. There are plenty of sources out there that have already done that. I just want to share some thoughts that went into this purchase and hopefully help anyone who’s interested in buying a 2019 Toyota Tacoma.

First, let’s talk about the truck itself and why I went with this particular build. For 2019, the Toyota Tacoma comes in 6 different trims: SR, SR5, TRD Sport, TRD Offroad, Limited and TRD Pro.

For my Tacoma, I really only had one hard requirement and that is for it to have a double cab, meaning a truck with four full doors. My Ranger had a standard cab meaning 2 doors and no realistic room behind the driver at all. I ended up hating this because there wasn’t enough room for my uses. Luckily for me, there are no current Tacomas with this cab size. The smallest is the Access Cab, meaning two doors but there are some smaller seats behind the driver and passenger seat accessible by moving the front seats forward. My uncle had an access cab Tacoma and from that experience, I just know that it’s not for me. I wanted the Double Cab and that’s available in all trim levels. But if you want the access cab, it is available in all trims except the Limited and TRD Pro.

I’m going to be honest with you, I wanted nothing less than the TRD trims. That means no SR or SR5. I bought the Tacoma largely because it’s a Tacoma. This truck just has that wow and coolness factor. It is a Tacoma, enough said. I’m sure many of you who want a Tacoma will understand that. This truck has become so much more than just performance, reliability and whatever else you may need a truck for. I bought this truck for the Tacoma lifestyle and that’s it. I not going to pretend like I’m going to haul thousands of pounds or climb the biggest rocks with my truck. This thing is spending 95% of its life, if not more, on asphalt and maybe that last bit driving on the minor gravel roads that I encounter while heading to trailheads in the mountains. This thing is just a toy, I have no shame in saying that. If your financial situation is correct and you can buy something materialistic that will truly bring you some joy, why not? For me, this is the Tacoma.

Back to trims, the SR and SR5 just would not have given me that Toyota Tacoma coolness. Without the TRD badging, I wouldn’t have been happy. That’s not to say that you should think the same. If you need a truck to be a truck and the SR or SR5 works for you, by all means, go for it. They are great trucks and get the job done. I actually think that these trims are the most practical and all that most people really need. Had I not have that want for a TRD truck, the SR or SR5 would’ve realistically have been the best option for me.

Since I wasn’t going to buy the SR or SR5, I was left with the TRD Sport, TRD Offroad, Limited or TRD Pro. Even though I said that I wanted the TRD sticker, I was still practical about this purchase. I knew that this truck will very likely never see anything other than asphalt so the TRD Pro, with its more offroad oriented features and higher price, did not make sense for me. I was not going to spend an extra $5k on the TRD Pro for things that I KNOW I don’t need.

The Limited is interesting and was originally the trim that I thought that I was going to buy. With this, you’re getting the creature comforts. As standard with the Limited, you’ll get the Premium Package (includes dual zone automatic climate control, leather-trimmmed seat with heated leather front seats, Entune Premium JBL Audio with Integrated Navigation and Entune App Suite, auto headlights and moonroof) and Technology Package (includes rear parking assist sonar, Blind Spot Monitor (BSM) with Rear Cross-Traffic Alert (RCTA)). This is all very nice and wants for me, but I still wanted that TRD sticker and those packages that the Limited provide can be purchased as an add-on with other trims. The Technology package is $1459 and Premium package is $2890. These were two things that I planned on getting if I didn’t go with the Limited.

Another thing that is preferred is having a 6 foot long bed instead of the standard 5 foot short bed. This is not for hauling extra stuff but for sleeping in. I often go hiking or travel far for photography and need to do a makeshift camp in the back of the vehicle. The 5 foot bed is just too short and I would have to lower the tailgate when laying down. The 6 foot bed is the way to go and this is not available with the Limited or TRD Pro but is available with the TRD Sport and TRD Offroad.

I realistically narrowed my options down to the TRD Sport or the TRD Offroad and I think for many people, this will be a similar situation. Let me explain my decision for buying the TRD Sport.

First of all, I personally think that the TRD Sport’s exterior looks the best among all the trims. Although the hoodscoop is not functional, I think that it makes the truck look so much meaner (in a good way). The TRD Sport also comes with color matching fenders whereas the Offroad come with matte black fenders to help show less damage for those who will actually take the truck offroad. Cosmetically, the TRD Sport looks the best to me, but that wasn’t the absolute determiner.

I initially told myself that I wasn’t going to buy the TRD Offroad because, again, it has offroad features that I don’t need. Not to mention that these features come with an MSRP price increase of $1255. I wasn’t going to pay extra for features that I don’t need. If I were to pay extra for offroad features, I would’ve just bought the TRD Pro for some real badass offroad truckery. Again, this is what I initially thought but it all changed when I found out that the realistic prices for the TRD Sport and and TRD Offroad are about the same. This really started to sway me towards the TRD Offroad because, no doubt, the TRD Offroad provides more features and costly parts than the TRD Sport if they are at the same price. With the TRD Offroad, you get the Bilstein suspension, Crawl Control, electronic locking rear differential, front skid plate, 16” wheels (TRD Sport comes with 17"), along with some minor other things. Although I do not need and will likely never use these features, I’ll take them if I’m getting them for the same price as the TRD Sport. The TRD Offroad is just a financially better investment.

There’s another thing that I wanted to point out. Although the upgraded Bilstein suspension is pretty nice, it may not be for everyone. Because it’s an offroad orientated suspension, it behaves like an offroad suspension. This means that everything is kind of loose and soft. When you drive it around you get more of that driving in a boat feeling and get more body roll with the TRD Offroad. The TRD Sport on the other hand, has a road orientated suspension system which minimizes the things previously mentioned. For me personally, I can deal with the way that the TRD Offroad drives IF I can get it for the same price as the TRD Sport. It isn’t that big of a deal to me. For those who care, these offroad features do make the TRD Offroad less fuel efficient. It is an extremely minimal difference (TRD Sport 19city/24highway vs TRD Offroad 18city/22highway) but it is less fuel efficient.

So, why didn’t I get the TRD Offroad? At the end of the day, the TRD Offroad was not the same price as the TRD Sport, FOR ME. At the dealership that I went to, the same spec TRD Sport and TRD Offroad were largely the same price. But again, I wanted a very specific configuration. I wanted a double cab, 6 foot bed, Technology Package and Premium Package. These things are easier to find with the TRD Sport because these are things that city drivers tend to care more about and city drivers will more likely lean towards the TRD Sport than TRD Offroad. The dealership that I was at had exactly what I wanted in the TRD Sport but not the TRD Offroad. The closest dealership with the TRD Offroad that I wanted was a state away. This means that I had to pay for the destination/delivery fee and, most importantly, pay sticker price. Although the TRD Sport and TRD Offroad can theoretically be purchased for the same price, I just couldn’t purchase them for the same price. After negotiations, I was looking at close to a $5k price difference in favor of the TRD Sport. This made the decision so much easier. Remember, for $5k more, I can just buy a TRD Pro. Why would I waste that money on a TRD Offroad?

Although it took at lot of time to figure out exactly which truck to buy, I feel that my decision was ultimately very straightforward. It just all came down to what I wanted, practicality and price. Now, this is not a post that is intended to try and sway you towards or away from a certain trim or option in any way. These are simply the thoughts that led to my decision. What I wanted may not be what you want.

If you just want a Toyota Tacoma and don’t care about the minor little features here and there, you just want a Tacoma at a good price, then I would suggest you check out the SR or SR5. These are the most practical Tacomas and will fit the lifestyle of most modern city people. Also, if you want the 4 cylinder engine, these trims will be your only option.

If you want the badest of the Tacomas, the most capable offroad Tacoma and the one that will get you the most clout, go with the TRD Pro. This is THE Tacoma to get in terms of cool points. However, it is also the Tacoma with the most offroad focused features and comes with the highest price tag. If you don’t want to spend money on features you don’t need, then look for something else.

If you want the most luxurious and comfortable Tacoma from the factory, then go with the Limited. However, the Limited isn’t available in certain configurations and many of the appealing things that you’re getting with the Limited is available as an add-on with other trims.

Now, if you are torn between the TRD Sport or TRD offroad, my first instinct is to recommend the Offroad. If you can get either of these at the same price, the Offroad provides a better value with the upgraded parts and extra features. However, these two trims do provide different driving experiences. The Sport is going to be more comfortable on road. The suspension is a little tighter and feels a little more planted while the Offroad can feel loose and like you’re driving in a boat. However, when offroading, the TRD Offroad is likely going to give you a better ride. The Offroad’s softer suspension will help to soak up the uneven terrain, making the ride more comfortable. But, this just all depends on how extreme your offroading is. On simple gravel dirt roads, there is going to be little difference. But when you start going to specific sites to go offroading, to climb over rocks, crawling through mud/ruts and all of that, the TRD Offroad may be the better choice. The Crawl feature and electronically locking rear differential may be the difference between getting stuck and making it through. Just be real with yourself and your needs. Test drive both cars in the conditions that you intend to use them in, if possible. Don’t overpay for something you don’t need just to say that you have it unless that was your reason to buy it in the first place.

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m completely a Toyota Tacoma fanboy. It is just the coolest truck to me. I have no problem admitting it. That being said, I’m well aware that it is not the perfect truck. It is not even the most practical vehicle for me right now. I just bought it because I wanted to fulfill a long time fantasy. For those who are reading this post and need a little help in affirming that the Tacoma is a cool truck, no problem, I’ll be the first to tell you that it is a completely badass truck. But for those reading this post and are looking for a truck with class leading features, I would advise you to throughly shop the market and make sure that this truck has what you’re looking for. There are a lot of minor inconveniences and annoyances with this truck that, on paper, makes it lacking and dated.

Here’s something else to think about, by the time that you read this post, it will already be late August 2019. The 2020 Toyota Tacoma has long been announced. It was supposed to be in dealerships starting summer of 2019 but my dealership was saying that January 2020 is more realistic. Either way, if you can wait it out, I would personally recommend that you wait for the 2020 Toyota Tacoma. Notable things with the 2020 Tacoma is that it will come with electronically adjustable seats. In 2019 and at over $40k, the Tacoma still has full manual seats. The electronic seats aren’t important to me, but this is one of those things that make the Tacoma a bad value compared to the competition. The 2020 Tacoma will also come with an updated entertainment system that is Apple Carplay and Android Auto compatible. This is the most important update to me. I’m an iPhone user and having Carplay is just a nice feature and one that a modern car at this price should have. The last big update to me for the 2020 Tacoma is the inclusion of the panoramic view camera which uses the Tacoma’s various cameras to give you a bird’s eye view of the truck. This is a helpful safety feature that makes maneuvering around small spaces, like parking lots and even offroad (when you can’t see obstacles), much easier. There are some other minor updates but these are the three things that would make me want to wait for the 2020 Tacoma. So, why didn’t I? Again, it ultimately came down to money. If I were to wait for the 2020, I would’ve had to buy sticker price unless I wait until the 2021 Tacoma is close to hitting dealers and at that point I probably would tell myself to wait for the 2021. For me, the price was right for the 2019. I got a good enough deal that made waiting for the 2020 not worth it but if this is not you and you’re paying around sticker price for the 2019, I would just wait it out for the theoretically better 2020 Toyota Tacoma.


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