Horology

Glycine Combat Sub 42 Bronze Ref. GL0187

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I’ve recently been in the market for a bronze watch. This is for the same reason that I wanted a brass black paint Leica. I like things that feature materials that will age and will uniquely patina to my usage. That being said, I’ve always been somewhat on the fence about getting a bronze watch. Nevertheless, I did my research and narrowed the options down to either the Tudor Black Bay Bronze at $4050 or the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 80th Anniversary Edition at $2000. Both are seemingly great watches, but I just couldn’t pull the trigger. I just couldn’t make that multi-thousand dollar investment on a material that I wasn’t sure of so I put the idea of getting a bronze watch on the back burner. Then one day, all of a sudden, I saw a listing for the Glycine Combat Sub 42 Bronze at $415 and I knew that I just had to get it.

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The Glycine Combat Sub GL0187 features a 42mm bronze case with unidirectional turning bezel. Unlike the case, the bezel ring itself is actually made from aluminum. The dial of the watch is what Glycine calls charcoal-black and features a gradient. Towards the top by 12 o’clock, the dial is a much lighter shade of gray and works itself to black by 6 o’clock. If you don’t like the charcoal-black, there is a gradient brown dial version reference GL0188, gradient blue dial reference GL0174/GL0242 and even gradient green dial version reference GL0281. Also, if 42mm is too small for you, there is a 48mm version reference GL0200/GL0243. I’m personally still unsure of how I feel about this gradient dial. I would’ve much preferred a radial gradient which would’ve made the design more uniform. The dial also features applied indexes with a rose gold border and Super-LumiNova. The hour and minute hand features a similar treatment with a brushed rose gold coating and Super-LumiNova. For contrast, the Combat Sub features an all red second hand with more Super-LumiNova. Protecting all of this is a flat sapphire crystal with 3 layers of antireflective coating on the underside.

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On the back is a solid steel screw down case back. This is fairly common with bronze watches as the stainless steel will not react to skin contact and will not patina over time. This is a good design choice considering that had the case back been made of bronze, it would’ve likely patina very quickly with all the exposure to the skin and this may be uncomfortable and can irritate the wearer. However, I would’ve liked the color of the case back to match the rest of the case. This is something that other bronze watch manufacturers do and it really pulls everything together. It’s not like this isn’t possible for Glycine because after all, the strap buckle is also stainless steel but as you can see, it’s treated to match the case. The silver is such a stark contrast and to me is unappealing. It’s just a good thing that this part of the watch never gets seen with normal use.

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This combat sub ships with a composite strap. The exterior layer of the strap is a fabric material embossed with something reminiscent of a brick pattern and is bonded to the interior calf leather layer. To me, the strap feels comfortable on the wrist because of the leather but the exterior looks cheap and synthetic because of the pattern that Glycine went with. The perceived value of this strap would’ve been higher had they gone with a smooth texture, a more natural leather grain or an alligator grain print. I personally will not be wearing this watch on the stock strap. One thing that I would like to point out is that on the GL0187 spec sheet, it lists the strap as having 24mm horns and 22mm buckle. I’ve never seen a manufacturer list “horns” but it would make sense to assume that they meant that the strap is 24mm apart at the lugs and tapers to 22mm at the buckle. This apparently is not so because this watch actually takes 22mm straps. Again, if you want to fit this watch case with different straps, then buy 22mm straps.

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The bronze Combat Sub features the calibre GL224 Swiss automatic movement which is a modified ETA 2824-2. This movement vibrates at 28,800 bph and has a power reserve of 38 hours. Now, I’m not going to be one of those people who will sit here and act like I’m knowledgable on this movement. Aside from the quick Google search, I have no frame of reference for it. But, according to the internet, this does seem to be a reliable workhorse that is widely use. This means that it should have some longevity and if it were to have some issues, you should be able to get it repaired with ease and for a decent price. To me, the only minor let down of this movement is the 38 hour power reserve. This would make it the shortest power reserve of all my watches. It’s just a shame that you can’t go at least full 2 days without winding it but it is what it is.

Check out THIS writeup to learn more about the ETA 2824 movement.
https://wornandwound.com/caliber-spec-eta-2824-automatic-people/


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Earlier I mentioned that there were a few other bronze watches that I had in mind prior to buying this Glycine, one of them being the Tudor Black Bay Bronze. If you’re familiar with that watch, then I’m sure that you can see some very similar design cues. To me, this is a clear homage to the Black Bay. I don’t know which came out first but the original brown Black Bay Bronze was introduced in 2016 and black Black Bay Bronze in 2019. According to the Glycine website, all of its bronze Combat Subs are new for 2019. If this is correct, then I think we can assume where Glycine got the inspiration for its design. But that’s neither here nor there. This is not a comparison of the two watches. However, if you are interested in a cheaper alternative to the Tudor Black Bay Bronze 2016 or 2019 model, then this is a good choice.

This watch lists at over $1000 but you definitely should not be paying that much. I’ve seen this Glycine regularly around $600 and I think that that’s a fair price. However, if you’re able to pick it up for even less, again I paid $415 with manufacturer warranty, then this watch is an absolute steal.

If you're considering on buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Glycine Combat Sub Bronze https://amzn.to/2XCHCmF
Tudor Black Bay Bronze https://amzn.to/2XBiZXu
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze https://amzn.to/2XyV8ru

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Barton Alligator Grain Leather Quick Release Watch Straps

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I’ve been in the market for some new leather watch straps. Being that I’m a slave to the Amazon overlords, I did a quick search and discovered the brand Barton which manufacturers many different watch straps. One line of straps that really stood out to me was the Alligator Grain Leather quick release straps. So, I reached out and Zach over at Barton was kind enough to send over the entire current line up for review.

Here they are, the Barton Alligator Grain Leather quick release straps. These straps currently come in 6 different colors: black, coffee brown, toffee brown, navy blue, smoke grey and crimson red. They are currently available in 3 sizes: 18mm, 20mm and 22mm. To further add to the customization, you can also choose the buckle hardware color. With this, there are 5 options: stainless steel, black PVD, gunmetal grey, rose gold and gold. I decided to get stainless steel on all the straps that I received because that is the best option for the watches that I own.

All of the straps are crafted from top grain leather and embossed with an alligator texture. Holding the top and bottom layer together are matching colored stitching. The hardware of these straps are made from 316L stainless steel and are mirrored polished. The straps are approximately 8 inches in length and should fit wrists from 5 1/2” to 8” in circumference. No matter the lug width size that you buy, all straps will feature a 2mm taper from the lug end to buckle end. The straps are also thicker at the spring bar than at the buckle and that’s because these are padded watch straps. Sandwiched between the top and bottom leather is an additional piece of material. This helps to add to the comfort of the strap but comes at the expense of bulk. In this case, the straps are 5mm thick at the spring bar and 3mm thick at the buckle. This is a noticeable difference in hand but on the wrist, little difference can be felt and I don’t mind the bulk for the increased comfort.

One thing that I haven’t mentioned and is my main attraction to these straps is the quick release spring bars. These function the same as the typical spring bars but on the side of the spring bar, is a quick release lever. This allows you to remove and install these straps without the use of any tool. Just use your nail to pull on the lever and the end will retract into the spring bar body. This is such a simple design but very effective and I wish that all watch straps featured something similar.

In the short time that I’ve had these straps, they’ve quickly become some of my favorites. When I want to wear a leather strap, these are often the first choice. The straps mold to my wrist very quickly and are extremely comfortable. At under $30, I think that these Barton Watch Bands Alligator Grain Quick Release Watch Straps are hard to beat. If you’re in the market for something similar, I think they are worth a try.

Although these straps were sent to me for review, the opinions that I’ve stated are my own. I was not obligated to say anything about the product.

If you're considering on buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Barton Alligator Grain - Quick Release Leather Watch Bands https://amzn.to/2X4COX8

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Under $100 Dress Watch | Citizen Corso AO9000-06B

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I have for you a watch that I’ve only recently picked up but have been keeping an eye on for some time, this is the Citizen Corso AO9000-06B.

I first saw this watch a few months back but decided not to pull the trigger on it because I wasn’t in the market for such a watch. But, this piece recently went on sale for $81.99 and at the price, I just had to pick it up. That being said, the price of this watch is constantly changing. If you’re interested in this timepiece, check this link to get the most up to date pricing.

Upon first impressions, this is a very typical and straightforward watch. This piece features a 42mm stainless steel case and a silver tone dial. To contrast the dial are black Arabic numerals and blue hands. Siting at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions are two sub-dials which indicated the day and date. This particular watch comes on a black alligator print leather strap but if this color-way doesn’t suit you, there is a rose gold version with a black dial and brown leather strap.

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This watch features the Citizen 8635 movement. I’m not going to lie, I have no frame of reference for this movement. This is actually the first Citizen watch that I’ve ever purchased. That being said, Citizen is an absolute powerhouse and is known for making quality quartz movements, even in a low end watch like this. I have no doubts that this watch will last for years to come.

One thing that I do appreciate about this particular movement is the inclusion of Citizen’s Eco-Drive. To keep it simple, this is essentially Citizen’s proprietary light-powered watch technology. This just means that the watch is able to generate power by converting light into energy, whether it’s natural or artificial. Citizen’s Eco-Drive advertising is “A watch that never needs a battery.” That is not completely true because there is a battery in this thing and the battery will eventually die even with the Eco-Drive but we are talking years and years.

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With this watch, there are a few things that can possibly be considered as negatives. First, Citizen only advertises that this watch is “Splash Resistant”. They don’t even both to put a meter rating. This likely means that you should not get this watch near water. Sure, the occasional splash from washing your hands will be fine, but this should not be something that you swim with. I don’t consider this to outright be a negative because this watch is in no way advertised for any real physical activity. Just looking at it, it is obvious that this is meant to be a dress watch. A watch that’s slim, minimal and will look good with a dress shirt and suit. Wanting to dive with it would be asking more than it’s purpose.

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The second possible negative would be the use of a mineral crystal. For watches, the standard for the crystal is of course sapphire. Sapphire is among the hardest materials and is extremely scratch resistant, second only to diamond. This just means that a mineral crystal is not as good. I find that this is a valid concern, but one hard to make considering the price of the watch. Strictly speaking for myself, because this is a relatively cheap watch, it will likely take some abuse. This is a watch that I’m more inclined to wear on days where I’m doing physical activities. Activities that may damage a watch and scratch the crystal. This is simply because of the price. If I were to damage a watch, I would rather damage a watch that cost me $82 than one that cost hundreds or thousands of dollars. Even though I don’t want it to damage, I think subconsciously I’ll be a bit more careless with it. Because of this, I would’ve definitely preferred a sapphire but again, I can’t really complain considering how relatively cheap this watch is.

With a quartz watch, it’s somewhat difficult to say that a particular piece is of good value because quartz watches can be had for so little. That just means that the value is in the eye of the beholder. For me, this watch is absolutely worth it. It’s very elegant and, in my opinion, looks like it costs more than it actually does. If you’re looking for a simple dress watch under $100, I think that you should seriously consider this timepiece.

If you're considering on buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Citizen AO9000-06B Stainless Steel Watch https://amzn.to/2WsZLic

Citizen AO9003-08E Rose Gold Watch https://amzn.to/2WE8rXR

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BluShark AlphaPremier NATO Straps

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NATO straps have come to be known as a cheap alternative watch band. It’s now something that you can buy multiple of without worrying too much about the price. To achieve this, most companies that sell NATO straps stick around the $15 per strap price range or cheaper. For me personally, this is a price that I’m comfortable with and allows me to essentially buy a different strap for every day of the week. BluShark, however, has moved away from this by introducing their AlphaPremier collection which costs about $36 per strap. The question is, is it worth it?

First, let’s take a look at the materials of the strap. The BluShark website claims that the AlphaPremier collection combines the best features of all BluShark collections to create their highest quality nylon strap to date. To me, this is the main reason for buying the AlphaPremier. You are paying for the upgraded, more premium nylon. For me personally, the AlphaPremier provides the best, most comfortable feel of all my NATO straps and that’s attributed to this nylon. There is a stark, night and day difference between this material and that on my other straps. In terms of the comfort of the nylon, I have no other NATO straps that even comes close to the AlphaPremier. As you can see, the nylon weave is extremely tight and this helps the strap to be very smooth. This very much so feels like a seat belt, in terms of smoothness, but it’s softer. You can easily glide your fingers across the surface and not make out the individual threads. This is in contrast to the cheaper and more traditional nylon featured on other NATO straps, where you can feel the individual ridges of the strap.

The strap itself measures in at 11.4 inches in length and 1.2mm thick. In terms of dimensions, this is just a slight bit shorter and thinner than what I’m used to but that’s not a bad thing. On my 6 3/4 inch wrist, I find that the length provides plenty of room for adjustment and still enough of a tag end to tuck the excess without it looking weird. As far as the thinness, I would say that I’ve not even noticed it but that’s because I typically wear a NATO strap that’s 1.25mm in thickness. That’s a .05mm difference so very minimal and almost indistinguishable. However, if you’re used to a thicker strap, switching to the AlphaPremier may be a big advantage because the thinner straps do add to the comfort over time.

When it comes to the nylon, for me, it is important for the strap to be reinforced in the areas that have been cut and are exposed. This means at the sizing holes and at the tail corner. If these locations are not reinforced, over time and with normal use, these areas will begin to fray and this is likely the biggest reason for needing a new strap. It may be difficult to see, but the AlphaPremier does feature these reinforcements. All of the holes are stiff and so is the tail where the material has been cut. This should help to prevent these areas from getting any fraying and help the strap last longer.

In terms of hardware, the AlphaPremier is held together by what BluShark calls premium stainless steel. What I appreciate about the hardware is that BluShark allows buyers to have the choice of either a premium polished or premium brushed finish. This allows the buyers to match the straps to their watch case on another level. This option is something that I’ve only seen a few brands offer and only with BluShark when it comes to NATO straps. This is something that I really appreciate and definitely took advantage of just to make things match that much better.

Another thing to note about the hardware is that with some of the BluShark NATOS, one of the keeper is left unstitched and this allows it to slide freely. This is implemented for a more practical design. When you wear the strap, the floating keeper allows you more easily lock the excess strap end down. With straps that stitch all of the keeps down, you sometimes run into the issue of just having the excess strap hang. This is such a minor thing but can make a big difference in use.

Lastly, I’d like to talk about the shape of the keepers themselves. As you can see, these keepers are actually thicker and more squared off than what you get with the typical NATO strap. I personally do not like the thinner circular keepers. Because of their size and shape, they tend to fall over and rest against the strap. This means that when you want to use them, you’ll have to manually lift them up and that just wastes time. BluShark’s thicker, more squared off keepers, on the other hand, never fall over. They’re always upright and ready to go. Again, this is a minor detail but adds to the overall value of the product. To me, this is what the AlphaPremier collection from BluShark is all about, little refinements that actually add up to create something that may not have even realized that you needed.

At the beginning of this blog I asked if the BluShark AlphaPremier is worth the $36 per strap. Well, that’s kind of hard to say because it is kind of hard to justify spending more than double what you would with a competitor, but most competitors are not going to provide you with the quality and little refinements that BluShark AlphaPremier does. In this sense, the AlphaPremier is in a league of its own. It’s doing something that most other companies are not offering. If you want the choice between premium polished or premium brushed keepers, a floating keeper or squared off keepers, you should definitely be looking at BluShark. But to be realistic, BluShark does offer a few other collections that feature these things but at a lower price. The main thing that you are paying for with the AlphaPremier is the upgraded more premium nylon. You have to ask yourself if the highest level of comfort is important to you. If it is, the BluShark AlphaPremier is absolutely worth the money.

BluShark was kind enough to send me 3 AlphaPremier straps for review. I’m not obligated to say anything about the product. My opinions are my own and they are how I truly feel about the product.

https://www.blusharkstraps.com/

BluShark Nato Straps https://amzn.to/2H9JmuN

BluShark AlphaPremier Ultra Luxury Straps https://www.blusharkstraps.com/collections/alphapremier

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Seiko SRPB99 Samurai Padi Special Edition | First Impressions

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I just recently purchased the Seiko SRPB99 Samurai PADI Special Edition and because I haven’t had it long enough for a proper review, I decided to record a first impressions video for the watch.

In this video, I shared some of the key features of the watch and some of my opinions of it.

If you’re interested in picking this watch up for yourself, check out Mimo’s Jewlery and use the code “Seik35” for 35% off watches in the Seiko Prospex line. I’m not an affiliate of Mimo’s nor am I getting any kickback from you using the code. I purchased this watch with my own money and can say whatever I want about it. I just wanted to give credit where credit is due because I had a good buying experience with this dealer.

This watch is also available on Amazon https://amzn.to/2Vpyywl.

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