Analog Photography

Black Paint Leica M6 TTL 0.85 Dragon 2000

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I just got my dream camera and today, I'd like to share with you brand new black paint Leica M6 TTL Dragon 2000 millennium edition. 

This camera was originally made for the millennium year of 2000 and this year happens to coincide with the year of the dragon when considering the Chinese calendar. Once you know that, it’s pretty obvious how this camera got it’s name and concept.

There were 500 made in total and as you’ve probably seen, my particular camera is number 123. One thing to remember when buying cameras that are numbered is that some are more valuable than others simply because of the number. Number 1 will likely be the most valuable no matter the edition and another standout will be the last camera of a particular run so in this case, number 500 would be desirable. Then you have interesting numbers like my Dragon 2000. Again, mine is number 123. The sellers felt the need to mark the price on this addition up by $200 simply because the numbers are in order. My seller also had 299 and 377 but those are pretty much just random numbers to me so I had to get 123. I didn’t pay the upcharge though. 

Since this is a special edition, there are a few things that set this camera apart from other Leica M6s or M6 TTLs.

First, this camera features some design cues that are more similar to the M3. This includes the solid metal one piece film advance lever versus the two-piece design of a tradition M6 and the flat twist style film rewind versus the angle film rewind crank. Another little thing that would be appealing to Leica enthusiast is the reintroduction of the Leica script logo on the top plate.

One complaint that many diehard Leica users have about the original M6 is that it was made from zinc instead of brass like previous cameras. Many consider the zinc to be a cheaper alternative. This is another difference with the Dragon 2000 M6 as both the top and bottom plate are made from brass. The addition of brass has also enabled Leica to produce a camera with a black paint finish. 

For those who are not very familiar with the M6, they traditionally come in either silver chrome or black chrome. Again, the Dragon 2000 features a black paint finish. The chrome finishes are much more durable than black paint. They do not wear off as easily and hold up for much longer. So what is the appeal of a black paint camera?

When I said that this was a dream camera of mine, I did not necessarily mean this exact model, but just a black paint Leica M6. The M6 is my favorite Leica M camera and black paint is my personal favorite finish from Leica, so a black paint Leica M6 has always been a dream camera of mine. 

The way I see it, there are really only two reasons to buy a black paint camera. One is for collector purposes because they tend to hold their value and sell for much more than a chrome counterpart. I did not buy this camera for that purpose because I tend to use this camera. I want a black paint camera so that I can wear the paint off myself and this is the other reason to buy a black paint camera. It allows you to use the camera and have it patina in a way that no other camera will. As you use a black paint camera, you create something truly unique to you and that is what I love about black paint Leicas. Some people may not like the patina brassing look, but I personally love it.

 

If you are also interested in a black paint M6, cameras made in the year 2000 is where you will want to first look at because I can think of 5 different black paint M6 made for this year alone. You have the Leica M6 Millennium edition, the Millennium NSH, the LHSA, the Oresundsbron and of course the Dragon 2000. These various models will feature minor differences but all will have the brass top/bottom plate and of course the black paint finish. 

You may be wondering why I chose the Dragon 2000 over the other models. Well, I knew that I wanted an M6 with M3 controls so the LHSA and Oresunbrun were out of the question even though they were cheaper. The Millennium and Millennium NSH are the same except the regular Millennium had 2000 made while there were only 400 of the Millennium NSH so as you can imagine, the NSH will cost quite a bit more. This was actually the model that I wanted not only because it is the rarest and most sought after, but because the millennium models had more black paint parts. If you are observant, you’d notice that the strap lugs on the Dragon 2000 are silver. The Millennium editions actually have these black painted. Whether or not this is worth costing another $1500 is up to the buyer. For me as someone who intends to wear the paint off anyways, I didn’t think it was worth it even though the impulsive buyer in me was screaming for the NSH Millennium edition. Apart from that and of course the Dragon 2000 branding, the two models are pretty much identical. If you don’t mind the differences and don’t intend to buy these cameras for a collection or resale, the Dragon 2000 is definitely the better deal. 

Another important thing to consider between these different black paint models is the viewfinder magnification. All 500 Dragon 2000 cameras featured a 0.85 magnification viewfinder and this is pretty standard across the board on all of these black paint M6s. They all offer a 0.85 magnification viewfinder except for the Millennium and LHSA models which also feature a 0.72 option. This is of course up to personal preference. Both my M6 and M7 have a 0.72 viewfinder so I don’t mind trying something different at all. 

In conclusion, if you are interested in a black paint M6, there are a few to choose from. I’m happy to have gotten mine and plan to use this thing to the ground. I’ve never had a black paint Leica before so it will be fun to see how long it will take to actually wear this paint off. 

If you guys are interested in picking up a black paint M6 for yourself, I’ll include some links in the below to help lead you in the right direction. 


If you're considering on buying any of these products, please support my work by using the links below.


Jobo CPE2 Plus | Is a Jobo worth it?

If you’re into home film development, you’ve probably heard of the name Jobo. For those that haven’t, this is one of the Jobo variations. This is my personal Jobo CPE2 Plus. 

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For those new to film development, some developing process requires strict temperature management. By this I mean that the chemicals need to be held at a very specific temperature and this is where a machine like the Jobo comes in. 

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There are many variations to the Jobo machine. Some are very manual and are essentially just rollers and require you to do all the work. Some are fully automatic. You just press a button and don’t have to worry about a thing. Most people are going to buy a machine that falls in the middle, like this CPE2 Plus. Machines like the CPE, CPA, and CPP essentially do two things, they allow you to keep your chemicals and tank at a certain temperature via a water bath and the machine agitate the tank for you at a predetermined speed. These two factors contribute to consistency because if you were to do these things  manually, human error can effect the final result.

 

This leads me to the topic of this post, is a Jobo worth it? Well, like most things in life, the answer isn’t so black and white or straight forward. The answer is pretty much yes and no. I want to share with you my experiences with using a Jobo and you can determine for yourself wether or not it’s worth it, if you are interested in picking one up.

In my opinion, you have to be developing a lot of film for a Jobo to be worth it. I picked my Jobo up from eBay for a little under $600. This machine was new old stock meaning that although it is old, it has never been used. As the name indicates, CPE2 is the second version. Current models are CPE3 and CPP3. The CPE line is generally smaller with slots for 4 chemical containers and graduated cylinders instead of 6 in the CPP. The CPP are intended for the larger drums, but you can get quite a bit done with the CPEs.

Newer machines can range from $1700 to 3800 give or take depending on whether or not you’re going to be using a Jobo Lift or not. The lift costs around $600 and further adds to the consistence trend of the machine. These prices are of course only for the machine. You still have to buy the proprietary tanks. The tanks also need magnets or cogs to be used with the machine. The point is, there is a lot of stuff to buy and it’s all pretty expensive. Like I said, you have to be developing a lot of film, really care about consistency in film developing or you have some money to blow for this machine to be worth it.

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At the end of the day, owning Jobo like this doesn’t make film development effortless. You are still attached to the process. You still have to pay attention to development times, switch chemicals and clean everything. This is not an automatic machine. Like I said, the only thing that this machine really does is keep temperatures steady and agitate your drum. When I consider things in this regard, it’s almost clear in my mind that a Jobo is not worth it. That is why I’ve made videos on my YouTube channel (YouTube.com/TheUpperLeftUSA) showing alternatives to this machine that gets you similar results. Don’t get me wrong, having a Jobo is nice, but it is a luxury and is kind of over the top. It is not necessary. Most people hand develop in a sink and they get good results. Don’t think that you absolutely need this. To me, this should be the last thing that a film shooter should pick up. Try manually processing for awhile and see what kind of results you can get. If you feel that you are getting mediocre results, maybe send a couple rolls in to get them professionally developed and compare to your results. Try other alternatives first.

Check out these two videos where I've shown cheaper alternatives to the Jobo that I've come up with.

If you're considering on buying any of these products, please support my work by using the links below.

Anova Culinary Sous Vide Precision Cooker WIFI + Bluetooth
http://amzn.to/2xROXyw
Anova Culinary Sous Vide Precision Cooker Bluetooth
http://amzn.to/2za0aMy
EVERIE Sous Vide Container 12 Quarts
http://amzn.to/2zvwtby
Unicolor C-41 Powder Developer Kit
http://amzn.to/2Ad0A4O
Ivation Foot Spa Massager
http://amzn.to/2xknBoA
Cibachrome Motorized Roller Base / other motorized roller bases


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$4550 Film Camera - Leica M7

I once saw on an online post something along the lines of “you don’t buy a Leica with your head, you buy a Leica with your heart”. I think that this is for most people very true because let’s admit it, for the price that you pay for just a new Leica body, you can get a professional body and lens from another manufacturer that is technically more capable in terms of specs. 

Buying a new Leica FILM camera is an even more insane notion today for some very obvious reasons, but there are still three Leica film cameras that are in production today. These cameras are the Leica M-A, MP and of course the M7. Each of the three options currently retail for $4550, body only. Again, completely insane especially considering that they are all film cameras with, relative for the price, little features.

So why would you buy a new film Leica or better yet, why did I buy a new Leica M7? Hopefully, by the end of this blog, both you and I will be able to justify the purchase, just a bit.

Considering that there are two other options from Leica, why did I buy the M7? To me, the M-A is pretty much a modern take on the M3, fully mechanical, no batteries required. This is great but there is no light meter. The MP is essentially an M6 at the end of the day when it comes to features. Sure it is “mechanical perfection”, but I’d rather get an M6 at half the price (which I did).

So, I’m left with the M7. To me, the M7 is the only camera in the Leica M film line that really stands out. It is the only film M camera that has any form of automatic exposure. For the sake of keeping things simple, let’s just say that the M7 has an aperture priority mode. Is this necessary? Of course not! I rarely ever use anything but the manual mode in any of my cameras because that’s just a habit that I’ve gotten into over the years. Auto exposure modes can be confining but if I’m going to be spending the same amount of money on a camera that can auto expose and one that can’t, I’m going to go with the one that can just to get a little bit more for my money.

With the M7 you also get up to 1/1000th second flash synch speeds when using Leica Metz flashes and an updated viewfinder. The M7 viewfinder displays your shutter speed, film speed, exposure mode, and flash readiness. The viewfinder information brightness is also automatically adjusted to match the ambient light conditions. 

The M7 can now automatically recognize the film speed, through DX film coding, and provides aperture priority autoexposure.

The M7 runs on two (batteries) but when those run out, you can still manually fire at 1/60th and 1/125th of a second.

That being said, because it is more electronically driven, the M7 is theoretically more prone to malfunctions. I’m not worried about this right now, but a few years down the line, this may be a problem. Especially if Leica decides to stop manufacturing the M7 or repairing it. 

Before deciding on the M7, I was actually going between it, the Contax G2 and the Konica Hexar RF. I like the Contax because it is the most advance rangefinder. If I’m not mistaken, it’s the only interchangeable lens rangefinder that has autofocus. I like the Hexar because when all things are considered, it is essentially a cheaper M7 but with better features, even though it was introduced years before the M7.  I personally feel that the Hexar is the closest in comparison to the M7, but unfortunately, it’s not an M7. It’s not a Leica and if you remember, you don’t buy a Leica with your head. 

Both the G2 and Hexar has automatic winding functions and more importantly to me, they have a maximum shutter speed of 1/4000th of a second. That’s two stops more than the M7. This is very appealing because on a bright sunny day, using ISO 100 film, we’re talking about a difference of using f/5.6 and f/2.8. The difference in depth of field could make or break a photo. If you want to use a fast lens on the M7, you’re going to either have to wait until there is less light or use an ND filter. Either way, it’s more complicated than it should be. 

One thing that I’m enjoying quite a bit on this M7 is the cloth shutter. IT IS QUIET. The M7 has possibly the quietest shutter I've ever heard. If you watch the above video, there are some sound clips of the shutter. There is just a quiet little click to indicate the firing of the shutter and I love that. Very inconspicuous. 

This may be trivial but I like that this camera actually has an on/off button, revolutionary right? Wheres on the M6 to turn the camera/metering off, you have to change the shutter to bulb mode. I have admit that I’ve forgotten about this feature before and just leave the M6 on. With the M7, it’s exactly the same on/off mechanism as the F3, except that when the red dot is showing, the camera is actually off, not on. When the camera is off, the electronics gets turned off and the camera mechanically blocks the shutter release to prevent accidental exposures.

It’s interesting to note that when the camera is in manual mode, you can fire the shutter immediately upon turning the camera on. If you’re in aperture priority, you actually have to wait approximately 2 seconds, or until the film speed display in the viewfinder goes out, before you can take a picture. This is a weird setting and can really slow you down sometimes. 

I find the ISO dial on the camera back door to be interesting. It’s a two in one dial. The dial doubles as both the film speed selector and the exposure compensation. If you want the camera to automatically set film speed, as in it reads the DX coding on the film catridge, you set it to DX mode. If you want to set a custom film speed, as in you bulk rolled, the cartridge doesn’t have DX coding, or you want to push or pull the film, just turn the dial to the desired film speed. The setting that you want is the one opposite to the white dot of the exposure compensation dial.

One thing that’s always bothered me about using Leicas is just how you hold them. If you’re shooting in landscape, everything is for the most part fine. The problem is in portrait orientation. Depending on how you hold the camera, the viewfinder is blocked and you can't see anything. I show in the above video how I would normally hold the camera and the problem with using rangefinders. The picture to the right is from the M7 manual and shows how you should hold the camera in portrait orientation. This seems extremely awkward as you wouldn't really be able to adjust anything on the lens if you hold it that way.

At the end of the day, the M7 is an amazing camera, but is it worth the $4550 price tag? Honestly, it’s not. This body will give you the same result as really any other film camera as they all really do the same thing. Sure some cameras may have more features than others, but at the end of the day, they’re just tools. A used $100 camera will do the same thing as this new $4550 camera. If you want a Leica for the lenses, why not just buy the lens and adapt it to a cheaper or more capable camera? The Hexar uses the same M mount.

Logically speaking, we don’t buy Leicas because they are the greatest cameras in the world. We buy Leicas for the heritage, the history, for the sense of owning a Leica and that’s ok. If you’re happy with a Leica and it gets you out shooting, then that’s all that really matters. 

If you want the M7 or any other Leica and you have the funds for it, then buy the Leica. Filing the Leica void with another camera isn’t going to do anything but leave you with regrets. 

If you're interested in this camera, please consider purchasing it by using the provided links.

Leica M7
Amazon -
http://amzn.to/2skSTog


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Fun with Film

Today I developed my first roll of film, something that I haven't done since high school.  This is definitely a love hate relationship since working with film is such a process.  Although it is expensive and time consuming, what you get is so rewarding.  You are just so in touch with photography as a whole when you fully embrace film.  

I decided to develop my own negatives and instead of prints, I wanted to scan the negatives so that I'm able to upload them to the internet.  I still have a lot of practice to look forward to in both the photo taking aspect and film developing. 

In the above gallery are some photos that I took above the span of a few weeks. They range from photos of dogs, going out to dinner, to various shots from a visit to Leavenworth, WA during a holiday lighting ceremony.  Enjoy them and stay tuned for more to come.  

Going Full Hipster

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Let me introduce you to the newest addition in the family, my Nikon F3.

This is the first time that I've bought a film camera for myself. I haven't used film since high school photography class and haven't felt the need for it since we have easy access to digital. Using film today, could seem like a major hassle since you are limited to one ISO per roll of film and you have to deal with the development of it. There's no way of telling what the image looks like until the film is develop or printed.

Although there are some major drawbacks to film, I believe that it can greatly improve a person's ability to shoot. The limitations and lack of features forces you to stop and think about the shot. You have 24-36 exposures per roll of film. A roll of film can range from $2-$15. There is also the cost of developing the film, wether through a photo lab or buying the equipment to develop it yourself. After you develop the film, you also have to print it or you just have a bunch of semi-useless film laying around. I opted to get a film scanner instead to digitize all the film. With film, if you are careless, you are just flushing money down the toilet. It can get VERY expensive. Photography is already an expensive hobby but doing it with film just adds to the problem.

With this camera, I intend to do a lot more street photography. I wanted a small and lightweight camera to walk around with and capture some of the essence in life. I think that using film just adds to the quality of street photography. Although that may be a stereotype, I'm sticking with it! At the end of the day, it's not so much about the equipment as it's all about the photographer and what he/she is able to do with the camera. 

Be patient with me as I practice with the F3 and get accustomed to it. In time I will get all the film digitized and will add a new street photography section to the website.