Automotive

Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner

It’s wash day for the Supra. It’s been raining here in Washington pretty consistently and when we finally got a break, in came the pollen. The Supra is just caked. Since I’m washing the car, I thought I’d showcase the product that I’ll be using and that is Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner.

This is an extremely popular car shampoo. It is one of those products that is budget-friendly and actually performs really well. I purchased a one-gallon jug for only $13.80 but the price does fluctuate quite often. Check out the links below for the most up to date pricing of this product along with everything else used in my auto detailing.


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash https://amzn.to/2WKqcDx
Tool Daily Foam Cannon https://amzn.to/3ejCzwP
Measuring Cup https://amzn.to/2wzlA8S
The Rag Company Premium Cyclone Korean Microfiber Wash Pad https://amzn.to/3b48K1j
Greenworks GPW 1702 Pressure Washer https://amzn.to/3cbhxif
All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d
Camera Gear Used: https://www.amazon.com/shop/haihoangtran?listId=3QJCL9HQG8JDW&ref=exp_haihoangtran_vl_vv_d


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Ethos Car Care Foam Party Pre Wash

I recently received a package from Ethos Car Care with some samples. I figured since the Supra needs to be washed, why not try one of these new products. So today, we are going to be trying out and getting a first impression of Ethos Car Care’s Foam Party Prewash.

This product is designed exclusively for use in a foam cannon so that’s what we’ll do. The directions say to add 1-2 ounces of product into the foam cannon and fill the rest of the container with water. This obviously doesn’t account for the wide variety of foam cannons on the market, so I’m going to test this product the same way that I test every other prewash. I’m going to add 4 ounces of Foam Party to the container, then fill it up to the fourth indicator line with water. Again, this is what I do with every foam prewash so if you’re interested, you can compare for yourself Foam Party to the other products that I’ve reviewed.

The first thing that I noticed about this product is its consistency. It’s not watery like a Turtle Wax Ice Snow Foam but not as thick as Chemical Guys Honeydew or Watermelon Snow Foam. It’s somewhere in between. I prefer the more liquidy products because they tend to mix much easier in water and require less agitation. In this sense, Foam Party gets a pass. It dissolves almost immediately in the foam cannon and is very easy to clean from my measuring cup.

In use, I would have to say that right away, I’m just blown away at the amount of foam that this product produces. This is the definition of shaving cream thick foam. I can literally wipe the panel and cup a hand full of foam. Personally, this is the thickest foam that I’ve ever gotten out of my cheap electric pressure washer and cheap foam cannon. This right here is the good stuff. I can only imagine what Foam party can do in a high powered pressure washer and a high-quality foam cannon.

However, one thing that I did notice is how fast this foam moves off the panels. I was told that Foam Party does not contain cheaper salts found in other products that can leave behind residue and diminish hydrophobic effects. Foam Party is pretty much all surfactants and humectants to ensure that the foam stays wet so it produces a thick lather that clings and is slow to dissipate. I actually found that this product moves quicker off the panels than some others that I’ve tried. It’s not like it just rolls off the surface immediately, but I’ve seen other products cling better.

So here’s the crazy part. Because I was recording the video above, I had to move a lot slower than I typically would during a normal car wash. This means that there’s a much greater chance for products to start drying. On some panels, Foam Party completely rolled off the surface and started to dry but there’s no leftover residue. So, this tells me that the claim that this product doesn’t contain cheaper salts is seemingly true. I personally think that this is a HUGE plus for someone like me who often works in direct sunlight.

Now, Foam Party is pretty great but I do have two criticisms. The first is with the scent. Foam Party is advertised as having a tropical scent. I get a hint of the artificial coconut smell but the keyword there is artificial. To be honest, Foam Party smells like one of those cheap Little Trees air fresheners to me. I would’ve preferred a more neutral fruit scent but that’s just me. I’m sure there are plenty of people who love this smell.

The second criticism is the price. At $16.95 per 16 oz bottle or $64.99 per gallon, this is a pretty expensive prewash. It’s definitely the most expensive foam soap that I’ve tried but again, it does provide the best results that I’ve gotten. You can’t expect a product with higher quality ingredients than the competitors to also be the cheapest on the market. So, this is more so a case of you get what you pay for.

Overall, I would have to say that Foam Party is a great product and is the best prewash that I’ve tried so far. The foam is crazy thick and because it doesn’t easily dry out and leave behind a residue, it’s perfect for those who work outside and can’t plan around the weather. Foam Party easily gets my recommendation.


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Ethos Car Care Foam Party https://amzn.to/2Ss4Qbd
Tool Daily Foam Cannon https://amzn.to/3ejCzwP
Measuring Cup https://amzn.to/2wzlA8S
Greenworks GPW 1702 Pressure Washer https://amzn.to/3cbhxif
All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d
Camera Gear Used: https://www.amazon.com/shop/haihoangtran?listId=3QJCL9HQG8JDW&ref=exp_haihoangtran_vl_vv_d


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Toyota Supra GR Cusco Tow Hook

I recently installed the Cusco tow hooks on my A90 Supra.

This install can be extremely simple. Since these are tow hooks, they attach to the pre-tapped female threading already on the Supra. These are hidden behind the plastic covers in the front and rear bumper. To remove these covers, we just have to press the bottom of the cover and slip the top out. The cover is held in place by a plastic tether and this can be removed by giving it a little tug.

Once the cover is off, all there’s to do is screw the tow hook into place. The Cusco tow hooks come in two pieces, the main shaft which screws into the Supra and the hook itself which screws into the shaft.

If you’re satisfied with this look then the install is complete. I personally don’t like installing the tow hook this way because, without the original cover, you can see through the bumper and see the metal behind it where the tow hook installs. So, I cut out a hole in the original covers to give these tow hooks a more factory look.

To do this, I had to use some tape to find my drilling location. The goal here is to use the tape to indicate the center of the tow hook hole. Make one piece of tape run vertically down the middle of the hole. Then use another piece of tape to run horizontally across the middle of the hole. Where the tape intersects is going to be the center of the hole. Now, cut the tape on three sides and create a flap. Do your best to not lift the tape too much and make it move out of position. Now, reinstall the tow hook cover. Lay the tape back down and align the tape flap with the other pieces. At this point, you can mark the intersection or cut the final side of the tape to attach the tape intersection solely on the cover.

Remove the cover again and drill a hole where you indicated the center of the tow hook hole. This is where things get a little tricky. I drilled out a one-inch hole and this fits the shaft of the Cusco tow hook perfectly. However, I forgot that although the shaft installs parallel to the ground, this part of the bumper sits at an angle. More importantly, the tow hook cover installs at an angle. So, unless you drill out a large enough hole in the cover for the shaft to clear while reinstalling it, you’ll have to go back and forth, trimming the sides of the hole and checking fitment until everything is correct. Personally, I would recommend doing it this way anyway because drilling out a single hole would mean drilling a pretty large hole so that kind of defeats the purpose of doing this in the first place. The most precise hole is going to be more of an oval so, get your pilot hole then trim to perfect fitment.

The main difference is going to be tightening the tow hook into place. As mentioned earlier, the Cusco tow hooks come in two pieces. We first have to install the main shaft and tighten it down. At the front, there is a lot of clearance room so you can use a variety of different tools to get this done. Once it’s locked down, we screw the actual hook into the shaft. Take note of the jam nut which will allow you to adjust the spacing between the hook and the shaft. Once everything is in positioned how you want it, lock the jam nut into place. An adjustable wrench is going to be a good tool for this part of the install.

However, at the rear bumper, there is very little clearance room. An adjustable wrench is not going to fit here without damaging the bumper. To install the shaft at the rear, you pretty much have to use a six-point 24mm socket. When installing the hook into the shaft, because we can’t use an adjustable wrench to lock the jam nut down, you’ll essentially have to find a way to muscle the hook and jam it into place. I wrapped a towel around my wrench, put it in the tow hook, and just turned the entire thing. There was a lot of going back and forth, guessing and checking. This made it a bit difficult to level out the hook. Eventually, I did complete the install and the tow took was leveled enough for me to be happy with it.

And there you have it, the Cusco tow hooks installed with the OEM tow hook covers. This is a small product that adds a lot to the looks of the Supra. If you’re interested in this product, I can recommend it with a caveat. I had to order these hooks multiple times. The first time around, there were small paint chips on both hooks and the rear looked like it wasn’t prepped properly and the painter painted over something. The second set was exchanged for another and the exact same thing was present. The paint chips were still there but this time, it looked like the painter painted over some small hair fibers. So, what I’m getting at is that quality control doesn’t seem to be all that great with these tow hooks. Luckily, I ordered the hooks from Speed Industry and they were very good about making the best of the situation and getting the hooks exchanged out for me. Think about this when you go to buy the Cusco tow hooks. Can you live with some minor imperfections? If not, look elsewhere.


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Chemical Guys Mr. Pink Super Suds Car Wash Soap and Shampoo

I recently picked up a gallon of Chemical Guys Mr. Pink. This car shampoo is advertised as being excellent in both a foam cannon and a bucket. I was a bit skeptical because many car shampoos that are designed for a contact wash don’t foam too well. In the video above, I tested Mr. Pink with both methods. See for yourself how it performs.


If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Chemical Guys Mr. Pink https://amzn.to/3a1rjSx
Tool Daily Foam Cannon https://amzn.to/3ejCzwP
Measuring Cup https://amzn.to/2wzlA8S
The Rag Company Premium Cyclone Korean Microfiber Wash Pad https://amzn.to/3b48K1j
Greenworks GPW 1702 Pressure Washer https://amzn.to/3cbhxif
All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d
Camera Gear Used: https://www.amazon.com/shop/haihoangtran?listId=3QJCL9HQG8JDW&ref=exp_haihoangtran_vl_vv_d


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Toyota Supra GR OEM Carbon Fiber Mirror Caps

What’s going on guys, it’s Hai and today we are going to fix one of the most annoying things, to me, about my Supra and that is the stock mirror caps.

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If you didn’t know, there are three different mirror cap options for the A90 Supras. The 3.0 and 3.0 Premium trims have black mirror caps. The Launch Edition has red mirror caps. Then there are optional $925 carbon fiber mirror caps that can be purchased from the manufacturer.

I’m wasn’t going to blow $925 for mirror caps so I went to see what third parties manufacturers had to offer. After some research, I decided to pick up the Rexpeed carbon fiber mirror caps. Well, let me just tell you that these didn’t work out. The Rexpeed mirror caps are actually stick-ons so they adhere to the OEM mirror caps and do not replace them. This is fine if the fitment was actually correct. My Rexpeed mirror caps arrived with a lot of overhangs and excess material. It was very obvious that there was something there and I can almost guarantee that with them, if I go to do a car wash or something similar, towels, sponges or whatever will snag and pull on them. Over time, this will likely cause the adhesive to lift and that’d be no good. So, the Rexpeed mirror caps were returned.

I went back to trying to find some carbon fiber mirror caps. I went on eBay, just in case, then all of a sudden, I found a listing for some brand new unused OEM mirror caps for $300. I made an offer and after some negotiating, I got the OEM carbon fiber mirror caps for $279. That’s cheaper than many aftermarket options. Needless to say, I lucked out. BIG TIME.

Screen Shot 2020-04-19 at 12.42.51 AM.png

I was worried that these might be fake but you can tell if the mirror cap is OEM or not by looking at the inside. Most mirror caps will be made from one solid piece of backing. The OEM actually has a skeletonized interior structure and we can see through the various cutouts to the carbon itself. As far as I know, this is the only carbon fiber mirror cap that has this design.

Screen Shot 2020-04-19 at 1.10.07 AM.png

These mirror caps look so good but there is one problem with them. The passenger cap arrived with a broken mounting tab. This is where things get crazy. I contacted the seller and he was nice enough to give a full refund and let me keep the OEM mirror caps. Crazy right? $925 OEM mirror caps FOR FREE. Sure one of the tabs was broken but a quick trip to the hardware store and $6 worth of epoxy fixed things real quick.

Let’s go ahead and install the mirror caps. To do this, we first have to remove the mirror. You’ll be needing a trim pry tool or something similar. I would highly advise you to lay down some tape at the bottom edge of the mirror assembly to protect the finish from any scratches made by the pry tool. From here, use the pry tool and pry the mirror outwards. Take your time, prying along the bottom edge of the mirror. Be gentle. You don’t want to crack the mirror. That’ll add a couple extra hundred dollars to the install. Once the mirror is out, we can just let it hang for now. You can wrap it in a towel to prevent it from slipping and damaging the paint or itself.

Screen Shot 2020-04-19 at 1.10.55 AM.png

Now, we’re going to remove the stock mirror cap. It is held in place by three prongs and an array of tabs. To release the mirror cap, we have to lift the safety tab in between the prongs while squeezing and pushing the prongs out. It helps to get in between the mirror cap and mirror assembly towards the top and pry the two apart. If you are going to do this, lay down some more tape along the outer edges and between the gap. I found that the best way to get these prongs out is to lift the safety tab with a right angle picking, squeeze the prongs together with needle nose plyers, then pry the mirror cap from the outside as I push with the needle nose plyers. The needle nose plyers really made the mirror cap removal much easier as the prongs have indentations that seem to fit my pliers perfectly. Pushing with the pliers really gave the leverage that I needed to remove the mirror caps. Once the three prongs are disgaged, wiggle the mirror cap as you pull outwards to release the array of bottom tabs and to completely remove the mirror cap. At this point, it’s just a matter of lining up the new carbon fiber mirror cap with the mirror assembly and pushing it back in place. Make sure that the mirror cap is properly seated with the prongs engaged inside the housing and there are no inappropriate gaps. Lastly, we’re going to reinstall the mirror. That’s it for one side and all there’s left to do is repeat on the other.

And with something as simple as a mirror cap, the look of the Supra is completely changed. I actually had OEM carbon fiber mirror caps on the Renaissance Red 2.0 Supra that I owned and really missed them when I traded it for the Absolute White Supra which came with the black mirror caps. This mod is definitely one that I can recommend. I don’t know if I would recommend you paying retail for the OEM version but there are definitely some cheaper aftermarket options out there. And who knows, maybe you’ll be able to find a crazy deal as I did.

Screen Shot 2020-04-19 at 1.12.31 AM.png

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