Automotive

Toyota Supra INJEN Evolution 2300 Intake

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For this install, we’re going to first focus on removing the stock intake. Begin by removing the temperature sensor. This is done by pulling the grey tab up, pressing it in, and then pulling up on the temp sensor wire harness. Next, loosen up the 6mm nut that’s holding the intake tube clamp in place. At this point, we can remove the airbox from the engine bay. You can tear the box down further but I like to remove the entire thing in one piece. The airbox is held in place by 3 rubber grommets and they like to come out with the box. If this happens, remove the grommets from the bottom of the airbox and place them back in the engine bay.

Next, we have to remove the intake tube. This is held in place at 3 points. At the bottom of the intake tube, you’ll need to remove a retaining clip. The easiest way that I’ve found to do this is to slip a small flathead screwdriver into one of the exposed ridges and then pull the entire thing out. Save this clip as we’ll be needing it later on. The intake tube will also be attached to the crankcase hose. This needs to be squeezed at the knurling then pulled out. Lastly, the is an electrical wire that is attached to the other side of the intake tube. To get this wire out, you have to pull the two front tabs down and push the top back. After disconnecting these 3 things, the intake tube is now free and can be removed.

Next, locate the turbo adapter and 3.5” hump hose from the Injen kit. Attach the two parts together with the provided clamps. Only tighten the clamp on the turbo adapter side for now. At this point, we have to remove the o-ring that’s inside of the stock intake tube and place it in the groove of the turbo adapter. Be careful with the o-ring. If it’s cracked, torn, or worn out, you’ll need to replace it. Now, take the retaining clip that we removed earlier from the bottom of the stock intake tube and re-install it into the Injen turbo adapter. Make sure that the OEM o-ring and retaining clip are seated correctly. If that is so, we can move forward with installing the turbo adapter assembly into the vehicle. With this, you just have to push it into place. The retaining clip will expand and slip back into place by itself. Double-check that the assembly is seated properly and not going anywhere by giving it a little pull.

Next, we’re going to remove the temp sensor from the OEM airbox. This is held in place by two T25 torx screws. Re-install the temp sensor into the Injen intake tube. Make sure to use the provided Injen M4 button head screws and do not reuse the OEM screws in the Injen intake. Now, we can take the intake tube and attach it to the turbo adapter assembly. Once it’s in place, you can tighten the clamp. At this point, you can also attach the crankcase hose into the Injen intake tube.

Moving to the Injen airbox, we’re going to install the heatshield to the bottom of the airbox with the provided M6 screws. Next, take the filter and install it into the airbox. Once it’s seated, give the filter a 1/4” turn in either direction to lock it in place. We can now take the airbox assembly and place it in the engine bay, using the stock rubber grommets. Once it’s in place, attach the intake tube to the airbox assembly and hold the two together by tightening the clamp.

Lastly, re-connect the temperature sensor harness and we are done.

And there you have it. The Injen EVO2300 intake installed on the A90 Supra. With something like this, I typically provide some sound clips but this Supra is still in the break-in period and I don’t want to rev it like crazy so you’ll just have to subscribe to my YouTube channel for that when I release it. As far as the install, it was pretty straightforward. I didn’t personally run into any problems but if you do and need some help, drop a comment and I’ll do my best to help you out. If you want to support my work, I do have a Patreon and a variety of other outlets linked below.

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Adam's Air Cannon Car Blow Dryer

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Adam’s is a well-known name in the auto detailing industry but not so in the car blow dryer industry. So, when the Air Cannon Dryer came to market, it seemed to be overlooked. There’s very little information out there from users on this device. Because of this, I decided to pick one up for myself and give it a try in hopes of helping everyone out there who’s also interested in this product.

To start, let’s take a look at the Air Cannon itself. This product comes in a red, black, and white color scheme that matches the Adam’s logo very well. The unit itself features a 3.2 HP motor and outputs 106.7 cubic feet of air per minute.

At the top and on the carrying handle, we have an on/off switch and above that, a knob to control the speed or output of air. The speed control knob is nice. With some of the other blowers that I’ve tried, it’s either on or off. Full power or no power. Some blow dryers have high/low setting but this can be a hit or miss. Here, the powerband is quite wide. I like this because I’m able to dial in the proper amount of power for the occasion and surface. This is one of those things that you don’t think you need until you experience it.

Included with this device is a self-expanding and retracting 30-foot hose. Coming from a blower with a 7-foot hose, the 30-foot length is extremely handy. I can leave the Air Cannon in one place and just move around the car with the hose rather than constantly having to reposition the blower around. I also really like the self-expanding and retracting design. Most car blow dryers come with a hose that is just one size, so if you buy a 30-foot hose, you have a 30-foot hose to deal with. Here, when the Air Cannon is not in use, the hose retracts and is roughly 10 ft long. This makes it smaller and more manageable.

The Air Cannon also comes with two different nozzles that can be attached to the hose based on your needs. The nozzles have a twist locking design that keeps it in place. I felt the need to mention this because some much more expensive dryers hold their nozzles on with modified hose clamps and it looks super janky. Here, the design doesn’t seem like an afterthought. The same goes for the padded grip towards the end of the hose that helps to keep the warmth off of your hands because this device, of course, blows warm filtered air.

I’ve been using the Air Cannon now for a few days and I like it. Overall, I think it offers a lot of value for the price but there are two things that I would like for Adam’s to change. First is more power. My other blower dryer is advertised to have 4 horsepower and it does feel like it moves water off of panels faster than the 3.2 horsepower of the Air Cannon. Not to mention that the Air Cannon is getting pretty close to the price range of some other blowers that have 8 horsepower. My second suggestion is to add a temperature control. Right now, it seems like the warm air is also controlled by the speed controller. So, the more speed or power that the blower pumps out, the warmer the air gets. If you have the speed knob at a low setting, you’ll pretty much get no warm air.

These two complaints aside, I do think that this is a good product. The Air Cannon has been my go-to for drying cars and I wish that I went with it in the first place instead of messing with some of the other cheaper alternatives.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Adam's Air Cannon https://amzn.to/3jd8Yqx

Adam's Air Cannon Jr. https://amzn.to/2QqNY3e

Homend Pet Dryer https://amzn.to/32tTyt7

SHELANDY Professional 4.2HP Dryer (same thing different name) https://amzn.to/30ZTnVn

SHELANDY Motorcycle & Car Dryer (smaller version) https://amzn.to/2PTau4w

Other Car Dryers https://amzn.to/2DXPabz

Other Pet Dryers https://amzn.to/32DQoTL

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

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Toyota Supra AMS Performance Carbon Fiber Intake

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I recently purchased the AMS carbon fiber intake for my Supra. Long story short, things didn’t work out and I sold the intake to someone else. At least I was able to still make an install video. Watch and enjoy it. Hopefully, it’ll help some of you out there!

I purchased this intake from Speed Industry.
They didn't sponsor this video but gave great customer service!

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Spotless Car Wash Deionized Water System | DI Rinse DI Pro 100

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I finally did it. I bought a water filtration system to get spotless car washes. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, I’ll run through it real quick. When we use tap water to wash our cars or really anything else, water spots can develop. This happens because the tap water has minerals in it and if it is left to dry, the water may disappear but the minerals are left behind. I personally cannot stand this. I spend a lot of time taking care of my cars but water spotting is just something that I could not get around. So, I finally just bit the bullet and invested in a water filtration system that would remove the minerals from my tap water and leave me with a spotless car. Well, at least moving forward because the system won’t help with the water spots that are already there.

The system that I went with is the DI Pro 100. If you look at this product up by name, you’ll see that there are a few different companies that sell what seems to look like the same item. The particular system that’s shown in this video is manufactured by RV-Mods and is 100% made in the USA. Other companies buy it from one main manufacturer wholesale, slap a different sticker on, and resell. I can’t speak for any other DI Pro system’s performance, only what I purchased from RV-Mods.

The DI Pro 100 is advertised as being able to filter up to 4,000 gallons of water and costs $585. This was a huge selling point for me. If you’ve been in the market for a deionized spotless car wash system, you’ve no doubt come across the CR Spotless system. This is likely the most popular or, at least, the most widely known system. At $399 it only filters approximately 300 gallons of water. So for $186 more, you can get over 13X the filtering ability. If you can afford the upfront cost, the DI Pro is a no brainer.

So, here is the unit itself. At the top, we have the head unit and bypass valve assembly. Moving down is the 8”x35” tank that holds the 1 cu ft of DI resin.

The system itself is fairly simple. We attach a hose from the tap to the “In” port of the bypass valve and another hose to the “Out” port and that’s where we’ll be getting the filtered water. This process is made a little bit easier as the system comes with quick connectors. As tap water enters the tank, it gets filtered by the resin and deionized water comes out. The great thing about this system is that the bypass valve has controls to allow us to use tap water or filtered water. Some other systems only allow for filtered water once it’s hooked up. With the DI Pro, we’re able to close the valve and use tap water for the main wash. Then, open it up and use filtered water for the rinse. This means that we’re able to really stretch out the resin’s lifespan.

So, is something like this for you? I can't answer that but let me explain to you how I justified the purchase for myself. Getting into a system like this is a bit difficult because there isn’t a lot of information out there on it when it comes to the details. The various manufacturers may say that their system will filter X gallons of water but that does not mean that that’s the amount of filtered water that you’ll get. This was the factor that made me hold off on buying a deionized water system prior to this. How do I know if it’s even going to be worth buying? What if I buy into the system and have to replace the resin after a few washes or after a month? It’s all up in the air.

A major factor in determining how much life you’ll get out of any filtration system is the water that you currently use and what the total dissolved solids (TDS) content that it has. In short, TDS tells you the amount of minerals that are in the water and it is commonly calculated in parts per million (ppm). After some research, I found a web page published by CR Spotless that had some good information. I’ll link the page in the description below but the important thing is that this page gives us the formula to calculate the amount of filtered water that we can expect to get from any system given that we know our water’s TDS prior to filtering and the volume of resin that the system uses. This formula is 235,000 ÷ TDS x Volume of resin = Gallons of “Spot-free Water”. The volume of resin is based around 1 cu ft and is easy to find as many manufacturers list it in the specs. The particular system shown in this video uses 1 whole cubic foot of resin so it’s a given and is nullified in the equation. The only thing that I really need to find was the TDS of my water prior to filtering. To figure this out, I ordered a cheap TDS meter from Amazon and tested my water. After testing my water every day for a week, the meter told me that my water was sitting at 59-91 PPM. This is great news as from my research, this is relatively low. The CR Spotless page actually lists a few different city’s past TDS. San Diego had 400 ppm. Another city in Orange County had 40 ppm. Grand Rapids, Michigan 170 ppm. In any case, TDS ranges quite a bit around the world but luckily for me, I had a pretty good start especially considering that the DI Pro is rated based on incoming water of 110 ppm TDS. To get back to the formula, 235,000 divided by my lowest TDS of 59 would result in roughly 3,983 gallons of filter water. Pretty close to the manufacturer's listed 4000 gallons, which is great! At it’s highest, 235,000 divided by 91, I would get about 2,582 gallons of filtered water. In either case, that’s a whole lot of filtered water.

Considering that I only use this system for a final rinse, I’ll be able to get many washes out of the resin that comes with the original purchase. By my highly overestimated guess of 20 gallons of water used per week and 1040 gallons per year, I’ll be able to get about 2.5 to 4 years’ worth of use. This of course is just a very rough estimate but you get the possibility of the insane value.

If you’re going to try and do these calculations for yourself, there are a few things that I want to point out. First, my testing showed that not all tap water on my property is the same. For whatever reason, the water from the tap that I use to wash cars is purer than anywhere else on the property. So, if you’re going to test your water, test the tap that you’re going to be using the system with to get the most accurate calculations. It should also be noted that the TDS is not going to always be the same. It changes throughout the year based on various conditions so this means that you’ll be getting more or less filtered water depending on the time of the year. Realistically, I got a different TDS measurement on every test within a few seconds. So, it’s more important to understand your range of TDS rather than a specific number. Also, the equation previously shown from CR Spotless is not going to be 100% accurate. Not all manufacturers use this to calculate their filtered water output so the equation should only be used to help, not to be a definitive answer.

But it is still very useful because once you understand the amount of filtered water that you can potentially get from a system, you can then make a much more educated buying decision because remember, this is not something that you buy once and forget about. The resin used to filter the water is a consumable and will have to be replaced periodically. This system uses one cubic foot of resin at a time and that costs $225. To me, $225 for 2.5 to 4 years of use is not all that bad. It’s something that I’m willing to pay for. Now, if you test your water and it’s really high, to the point that you'll potentially only get a few months of use, then I would suggest looking for a different solution because the cost is really going to add up over time.

And that’s about it. I hope that this writeup has been helpful for anyone looking to get into a deionized water filtration system. If you have any questions, leave it down in the comments below and I’ll do my best to help you out. Make sure to also subscribe to my YouTube as I’ll be making update videos in the future as I get more time in with this system.

UPDATE

After less than 100 gallons of use, my water's TDS is sitting at 3 and producing water spots. The manufacturer recommends changing the resin when the TDS is around 50 because water spots shouldn't be a problem until then. However, the problem with TDS is that it doesn't tell us what minerals are present. A TDS of 1 can still produce water spots if the minerals left behind are those that produce water spots. After weeks of contacting the manufacturer of this tank, it doesn't seem like we're going to reach a resolution. I have to say that for the price and to get less than 100 gallons of filtered water, I can no longer recommend this system from RV-Mods.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Things you may need for this system:

Water Quality / TDS Tester: https://amzn.to/3fmcWea

Hand truck to move the unit: https://amzn.to/2XgrqWJ

Bungee cords to strap the unit to hand truck: https://amzn.to/39LEjgA

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