Automotive

Toyota Supra OLM Carbon Fiber Fuel Door Cover

in

I recently picked up the OLM carbon fiber fuel door cover for the A90 Supra and want to take you through the steps that I took to install this part.

Before we start, I want to share some thoughts on the product. Overall, the quality looks really good. I don’t see any obvious imperfections and that’s kind of surprising for a relatively cheap carbon part.

One thing that I will note though is that each strand of the carbon weave is thinner than I’m used to and in totality, the entire weave just looks smaller. This is something to think about if you have a lot of carbon in the near vicinity of the fuel door because the carbon weave of this part may stand out and not match.

Now, the carbon cover itself just installs with some double-sided tape and that’s fairly straightforward but I’m actually going to take the install process a lot further.  One complaint that I often see with cheap carbon fiber parts that’s been clear coated is that the product tends to yellow. This is likely, the result of using a low-quality clear coat. I want to avoid this so I’m going to first wrap the cover in paint protection film, then I’m going to ceramic coat the film. I will be using XPEL Ultimate Plus PPF and that in itself offers UV protection so I can realistically stop there. XPEL offers a 10-year warranty on the film but if you want to get anywhere near that lifespan you really have to coat the film itself and that’s where the ceramic coating comes into play.

To start, I’m going to decontaminate the surface and for this, I’m using Meguiar’s Mild Professional Detailing Clay with Last Touch Spray Detailer as a lube. Although this is a new part, I would still recommend claying the surface because you just never know what the part has gone through prior to delivery. I for sure saw some contaminant specks on the surface of my cover so I knew that this was something that I had to do.

After decontaminating the surface, we can move on to actually applying the PPF. This begins by applying a slip solution to the surface of the cover. This will allow for easier repositioning of the film if necessary. Because this is a smaller part and I have it off of the vehicle, I’ve cut a big enough piece of PPF to allow me to completely engulf the cover. Once I’m happy with the position of the film, I squeegee some of the solution out towards the edges. As the surface dries out, the film gets tackier and sticks to the surface. For something like this, it’s just a matter of working from the center out. Then when we get to the edge, when can trim the excess, make things look pretty, and call it a day. Now, I’m by no means an expert at this. I’ve learned to do this on my own and am just taking what I think is the most logical approach for this product. This is actually only my second PPF project and something like this is perfect practice because the surface is rather flat. There isn’t too much to get good results. After some work, I was able to get the cover completely wrapped to the very edge. There are some bubbles but the XPEL PPF does allow for trapped water to evaporate so all those bubbles should be gone with some time.

The next day, most of the bubbles disappeared. Because the PPF is mostly dry, I’m going to move forward with ceramic coating. For this, I will be using Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating. I’ve applied this to all the XPEL PPF on the Supra and I know that it performs well on this material. First things first, I’m going to wipe the surface down with Adam’s Surface Prep. This is an isopropyl alcohol mixture that is used to clean up any remaining oils. This will leave the surface bare and ready for coating. Now, for the coating process. I’m just going to apply a few drops onto a microfiber towel and cover the surface of the cover with it. When the coating hits the surface, it flashes and creates a rainbow effect. When the rainbow disappears, I can wipe the coating off of the surface and that’s it. The instructions state to keep the coated surface away from water for the first 24 hours. Since this part is small and off the vehicle, I’m just going to keep it inside for the next day.

At this point, the cover can be installed but because I know that there’s some etched in water spots on my fuel door, I’m actually going to polish it and get a flawless finish prior to installing the cover. The is going a bit overboard considering that no one will ever know what I’ve done, but I just can’t stand the thought of water spots sitting under the cover and etching further into the surface, possibly for the rest of this Supra’s life since I don’t plan to take the carbon cover off any time soon.

After polishing, I’m going to finish up by wiping the surface with an isopropyl alcohol solution. For this, I’m using Chemical Guys Wipe Out. Again, IPA will strip the surface of any remaining oil and leave it completely bare.

Now that the fuel door is thoroughly clean, we can move on to installing the carbon covers. Again, it is held in place by double-sided tape. Normally, I would suggest pealing off a small piece of the backing, position the cover, then slowly peel the backing with the cover in place, but there are a lot of relief cuts on the perimeter backing. I tried this method and the backing broke on me pretty quick. Luckily the cover wasn’t really held in place at this point so I can still take it off. You really don’t want leftover backing behind the cover as that will make an improper seal and can let a lot of dirt and debris collect back there. So for this install, I would suggest taking all the backing off and just go for it. It’s extremely hard to mess up with positioning as the cover really only installs in one way. Once the cover is in place, apply some pressure to promote proper adhesion, and you’re good to go.

There you have it. A relatively simple install taken over the top. I’m pretty happy with the result. The cover looks so good on the car and really pops out against all the white. However, there is one thing that I want to note. I think the fitment of this fuel door cover could’ve been a bit better. On the far left and right edges of my cover, some of the PPF is actually lifting. This is because it rubs against the fuel door cavity as it opens and closes. The fuel door cover itself leaves very little room on these two sides. Looking at the cover from the inside, you’ll see that there is actually some extra material on both ends. This slight rubbing, actually makes it more difficult to open and close the fuel door. I have to actively focus and push down exactly where the locking pin is to open the door. I don’t think that this is the biggest of deal, but it is an annoyance. But on the bright side, the fuel door doesn’t annoyingly swing open anymore if I just slightly brush up against it.

To me, for the big visual upgrade that this carbon fiber fuel door cover provides, I’d gladly take the minor annoyances and can definitely recommend you going with a similar upgrade, whether with this OLM carbon cover or one from another manufacturer.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating https://amzn.to/32wHzux

Meguiar’s C2000 Mirror Glaze Professional Detailing Clay https://amzn.to/3isPa2p

Meguiar’s Last Touch Spray Detailer https://amzn.to/2E1g7vo

Adam's Surface Prep https://amzn.to/2Rqf6zU

Griot's G8 Polisher https://amzn.to/3lXNYpn

Griot's Orange Pad https://amzn.to/3nXFuAl

Griot's Correcting Cream https://amzn.to/3k43jUE

Chemical Guys Wipe Out https://amzn.to/353XJLQ

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

Want to support my work?

Consider visiting the shop and buying "Absolutely Nothing" https://www.HaiHoangTran.com/shop/absolutely-nothing

or

Become a Patron!
https://www.patreon.com/HaiHoangTran

or

PayPal
https://www.PayPal.me/HaiHoangTran

or

Just shop on Amazon via this link!
https://amzn.to/2FgsDnG

Adam's Car Shampoo

in

In this post, we’ll be taking a look at Adam’s Car Shampoo. This is a no-frills pH-neutral soap that’s designed simply to clean. Car Shampoo has no gloss enhancers and no additional additives to help protect the paint. However, Adam’s does advertise that this is a high sudsing soap that can be used in both a foam cannon and bucket so we will be testing both methods.

First, let’s try Car Shampoo in a foam cannon. For this, I’ll be using 3 ounces of product and filling my foam cannon to the third fill line.

From my testing of various car shampoos in a foam cannon, I’ve noticed that most shampoos that are designed for contact washes typically do not perform well in a foam cannon. I would have to say that Adam’s Car Shampoo is the exception. It actually foams pretty well. The foam is thick and clings to the surface for some time. These are things that I look for because as the foam clings longer, it has more chance to encapsulate the various contaminants that are on the surface. Then when it comes time to rinse or as the foam rolls off by itself, it takes the contaminants with it.

Moving to the bucket, the instructions say to add 1-2 ounces of product and fill the bucket 2/3 full with water. This can be confusing as there’s no reference as to what size bucket so the dilution ratio is a huge guess. For this, I’m just going to start with 1 ounce per gallon of water as that’s my standard for testing. I’ll be diluting 3 ounces in 3 gallons of water. Upon initial impression based on the hand lubricity test, I’m not impressed. I can definitely still feel the skin of my fingers rubbing against each other. At this point, I’m going to add another 2 ounces of Car Shampoo, bringing the total to 5 ounces of product to 3 gallons of water. Now, I would say that the result is acceptable.

At this point, I would say that my experience with Adam’s Car Shampoo in a bucket is a good one. After adjusting the dilution ratio, there was enough lubrication for me not to worry about any possible scratching and the solution did seem to do a good job at actually cleaning. I didn’t see any stubborn spots that wouldn’t come off and that’s all that I can ask for.

Overall, I have to give Adam’s Car Shampoo a positive rating. It does surprisingly well in a foam cannon and not too bad in a bucket. At about 1.5 ounces of product per gallon of water, I’m using slightly more than I’d like but definitely not as much as some other shampoos that I’ve showcased on this channel where I have to use 2 plus ounces per gallon. Also, The thing that I really like about Adam’s Car Shampoo is its ability to be used in direct sunlight. Whether it’s in a foam cannon or in a bucket, the suds and solution itself seem to stick around for a good amount of time. This just means that we don’t have to rush to get the washing done and we don’t have to worry as much about having dried on soap residue. Something else to note is that this shampoo rinses off really fast and easily. I’ve tried some shampoos that take forever to rinse off and even after, there’d still be an oily film on the surface. This is definitely not the case with Adam’s Car Shampoo.

With all of this in mind, Adam’s Car Shampoo definitely gets my recommendation. If you’re interested in trying this product out for yourself, there will be links below. Try the little bottle first to see how it goes but if you really want to commit, definitely buy the gallon jug because that’ll save you a lot of money in the long run.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Adam's Car Shampoo 16oz https://amzn.to/2H5fEsY

Adam's Car Shampoo 1 Gal https://amzn.to/34QOui2

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

Want to support my work?

Consider visiting the shop and buying "Absolutely Nothing" https://www.HaiHoangTran.com/shop/absolutely-nothing

or

Become a Patron!
https://www.patreon.com/HaiHoangTran

or

PayPal
https://www.PayPal.me/HaiHoangTran

or

Just shop on Amazon via this link!
https://amzn.to/2FgsDnG

Toyota Supra Blitz Front Strut Tower Bar

in

When you receive this product, it will arrive disassembled. As you can see, this product comes with two side struts and those are connected by a center brace. Along with these three bars, we get all the necessary hardware, a sticker, and instructions that are Japanese only.

When it comes to actually installing the strut tower bar, you can either preassemble and place the entire structure in the engine bay at once or you can install it piece by piece. I will be doing the latter because I personally think that this is the easier approach.

I’m going to start on the passenger side. First, grab the appropriate strut and align it with the two pre-drilled holes. Now, we can take the provided M10x25 bolt, split washer, and flat washer, and hand tighten them to the bottom pre-tapped hole. You don’t want to fully tighten anything yet as you may need to make adjustments later on. Next, grab the M8x50 bolt with a flat washer and just slip it into the top hole. This is just an empty cavity and is not pre-tapped so the bolt will fall through to its head. Me personally, I went and picked up some rubber washers to put under these two connecting points because it is metal on metal contact. Over time, the paint and powder coat could potentially wear out, leaving these spots unprotected and prone to rusting. This step is strictly optional.

After both side struts are in place, we can take the center brace and connect it to the two sides. My center brace came with the hardware preinstalled and shows how the various washers are to be placed. So, just remove the hardware and transfer them to the side struts. This is actually where I ran into my only problem with this install. My driver's side strut was not spaced correctly where it meets the center brace. It was about a 1/8” too narrow. Because I was in a rush and couldn’t think of another solution, I just took a rubber mallet to the welded on plate. If you run into this problem and are going to do the same thing, hit the longer plate because it sticks out more and is more pliable. Also, don’t go too crazy. It only takes a few soft hits. You don’t want to accident damage the powder coating. After doing this, I was able to get the various pieces to align properly. Again, insert the hardware and just hand tighten.

Now, we move on to the fun part of the install. What we have to do is take the serrated nut and screw it into the M8x50 bolt that sits in the empty hole. I wish I could show you what this looks like but I went at it blind. I just stuck my arm in the wheel well, felt around for the bolt, and got it done. Doing it this way is possible if you’re on stock suspension height. I think it’d be a lot harder if not impossible if your Supra is lowered because there just isn’t enough clearance room to get an arm in there. If you want to make this step easier, you can either remove the top plastic fender arch, you can jack up the front and let the wheels droop to gain more clearance room, or you can just take the entire wheel off. I knew that I didn’t have to do any of this so I just gave the Supra the old reach around.

Now, once you get the nut hand tightened on the bolt, you have to go back and get a wrench in there and hold the nut down as you tighten things from up top or vice versa. For this, I used a 3/8” wrench with a deep 12mm socket for the nut and a 6mm hex key for the bolt. Once you get the tools in place, I would suggest to just tight this bolt down now so you don’t have to keep dealing with this step. If you have long skinny arms, this process is going to be fairly easy.

Now it’s just a matter of getting all the other bolts tightened down. The M10x25 takes an 8mm hex key. The M10x75 takes an 8mm hex key and 14mm wrench.

And there you have it. The Blitz Front Strut Tower Bar installed in the A90 Supra. This is a pretty easy install and if your bars are properly welded from the factory, things should get along fairly straightforward. All there’s really to do now is for me to clean the engine bay and make everything look more presentable.

Now, before I end the video I want to talk about a few things. First and foremost, if you’ve been searching the market for front struts for the A90 Supra, you’ve no doubt seen the Cusco Front Power Brace. And with that, there’s no doubt some very obvious similarities between that and the Blitz shown here. From pictures, the design seems identical. I personally went with the Blitz purely because of the color. I just cannot stand the Cusco blue and silver. I was actually going to buy it and have it re-powder coated until I discovered the Blitz which was about the same price but in the exact color figuration that I wanted. Going with the Blitz just saved a lot of time and money.

Speaking of color, when I was researching the Blitz, a lot of images that I saw depicted the tower bar with what looked like an anthracite or dark grayish center brace. If you’re wondering about this too, I can confirm that the center brace is black. Although it’s matte, it just reflects light in a way that always makes it look lighter than it really is. But no doubt, it is black not a shade of grey.

Lastly, you probably noticed that I have an aftermarket intake on my Supra. This is the Injen Evolution 2300 and it fits with no problems. There’s actually a lot of space between it and the tower bar. I can’t speak for any other aftermarket intakes but it seems like the Blitz Front Strut Tower Bar will fit with the stock intake and Injen Evolution 2300 intake perfectly fine.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

Want to support my work?

Consider visiting the shop and buying "Absolutely Nothing" https://www.HaiHoangTran.com/shop/absolutely-nothing

or

Become a Patron!
https://www.patreon.com/HaiHoangTran

or

PayPal
https://www.PayPal.me/HaiHoangTran

or

Just shop on Amazon via this link!
https://amzn.to/2FgsDnG

SGCB PRO Car Air Dryer Blower

in

I recently picked up the Adam’s Air Cannon car dryer. Prior to buying this, I searched the market and also saw the SGCB Pro car dryer. This product actually looks very similar to the Adam’s Air Cannon Jr., the smaller version of the full-sized Air Cannon that I bought. Maybe this is a case of multiple brands buying from the same manufacturer, slapping their own sticker on the product, and reselling under their name. That’s a pretty common practice so I didn’t think anything of it. But what’s really interesting is that the SGCB, although is smaller, advertises a more powerful motor that outputs more air than even the full-sized Adam’s Air Cannon while costing less. This is what made me very interested in trying this product. So, I had to pick it up and see how it performs.

Let’s first look at the product itself. The SGCB car dryer is fairly compact in size. This is definitely the smallest dryer that I’ve showcased on my channel. I personally like the smaller size because it’s just easier to maneuver and work with. However, one complaint that I do have with the design is the wheels. We get 4 rolling wheels with this product but none of them lock. This is just from personal experience but I’ve found that I don’t like it when the dryer rolls around as I try to dry a car. Having locking wheels solves this problem and I miss having the option with the SGCB.

Included with the dryer is a self-expanding and retracting hose. The length of the hose is really dependent on the power setting selected. When the dryer is outputting maximum power, the hose gets fully stretched and SGCB lists this at 5 meters or 16.4 ft. Along with the hose, we also get two hose nozzles. The nozzles and hose are held in place by a twist-lock design.

On the top carry handle are the only controls for the dryer. We first have an adjustable knob. This changes the output of air. I always appreciate having a fully adjustable knob like this rather than just an on-off switch. For more delicate surfaces, I don’t want to blast it with max power so the adjustable knob and lower power are really useful. Then on large surfaces like the hood, I can crank it up to max and get water off as fast as possible.

I should mention that this dryer does blow warm filtered air and this is actually the first dryer that I’ve tried that allows users to adjust the temperature. This is done by pressing the switch below the output control knob. When left in the middle, the blower just blows cool air. When the top setting is selected, we get warm air. When the bottom setting is selected, we get even warmer air. So this is essentially a low/high option when it comes to warm air. However, I find that even at the high setting this dryer doesn’t output the warmest of air so, in my opinion, the low setting is almost useless. If I want warm air, I always select the high setting.

Since we are taking a look at a car dryer, we have to talk about performance. This SGCB dryer is advertised to have a 5 HP motor and outputs 290 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and 61,000 FPM (feet per minute) of air. These numbers are very high considering the size and price of the SGCB. However, I want to note that these numbers are inconsistent. The numbers range depending on where you look at the product listing. From Amazon to the various SGCB official sites to the manual that comes with the dryer, the CFM and FPM are listed differently, sometimes even as you scroll from top to bottom on the same product page. The only thing that stays consistent is the 5 HP motor so that’s what I want to focus on.

From my experience with multiple car blow dryers, I would say that there’s no way that the SGCB outputs as much air as I’d expect from something with a 5 HP motor. It doesn’t output as much as the Adam’s Air Cannon which is advertised at 3.2 HP and definitely not as much as the Homend dryer that’s advertised at 4.2HP. I’ve never tried the Adam’s Air Cannon Jr. but that’s the one that the SGCB most look like and the Air Cannon Jr. is advertised to have a 2.1 HP motor. From the performance that I get with the SGCB, 2.1 HP is a lot more believable than 5 HP. Maybe this is a case of crank vs wheel horsepower and SGCB did some sort of testing that got 5HP, but then end result sure does not show that.

Let’s put it this way, I started looking for a dedicated car blow dryer because I was using a cheap leaf blower and it didn’t perform very well. But surprising after I coated my Supra with Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating, the leaf blower was able to blow water from one side of the hood clear across to the other. The SGCB on the other hand with it’s supposed 5 HP, performed nowhere near as good as the cheap leaf blower. I constantly had to keep moving around to completely clear water off my hood. This was very disappointing.

Because of its poor performance and the manufacturer’s sketchy advertising, I would personally say that the SGCB Pro car dryer is not worth it. At least it’s not worth the around $200 price that SGCB is trying to sell it for. I think that if you’re interested in this product, wait out for a sale. If you can’t do that, consider the Adam’s Air Cannon Jr. which consistently goes on sale and is usually cheaper than the SGCB. I’ll leave links down below in case your interested in anything that I’ve mentioned.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

SGCB PRO Car Air Dryer Blower https://amzn.to/30wIhpS

Adam's Air Cannon Jr. https://amzn.to/2QqNY3e

Adam's Air Cannon https://amzn.to/3jd8Yqx

Homend Pet Dryer https://amzn.to/32tTyt7

SHELANDY Professional 4.2HP Dryer (same thing different name) https://amzn.to/30ZTnVn

SHELANDY Motorcycle & Car Dryer (smaller version) https://amzn.to/2PTau4w

Other Car Dryers https://amzn.to/2DXPabz

Other Pet Dryers https://amzn.to/32DQoTL

Adam's Graphene Ceramic Coating https://amzn.to/32wHzux

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

Want to support my work?

Consider visiting the shop and buying "Absolutely Nothing" https://www.HaiHoangTran.com/shop/absolutely-nothing

or

Become a Patron!
https://www.patreon.com/HaiHoangTran

or

PayPal
https://www.PayPal.me/HaiHoangTran

or

Just shop on Amazon via this link!
https://amzn.to/2FgsDnG

Griot's Ultimate Car Wash Bucket

in

This is the Griot’s Garage Ultimate Car Wash Bucket and it costs $50. Technically, the bucket costs $34.99 but if you buy it in this configuration with the castor wheels and lid, it costs $50. In either case, it seems to be insanely priced for what it is. So, why does it cost so much?

Well, first off it’s pretty obvious that this thing doesn’t look like the typical bucket, it’s rectangular. The Ultimate Wash Bucket comes in at 19” in length, 9” wide, and 9” deep. These dimensions allow you to hold 6 gallons of water. To help carry this bucket, there is a handle on the side. If you also pick up the wheels, they quickly slip into the bottom of the bucket. Then the lid, of course, sits on top of the bucket. The lid just snaps into place and doesn’t have any seels so it’s not meant to keep the bucket watertight. Speaking of the lid, it doesn’t seem to be very well sized for the bucket. The corner tabs actually stick out a bit too much and when I try to lift the handle, the handle catches the lid and wants to lift it up. I have to actively push the handle through to make things work.

Moving to the inside of the bucket, we see where this bucket differentiates itself from others. Up top, we have a grill that’s meant to be a shelf that holds various items. Say you’re washing a car and it’s time to put the mitt back into the bucket but you don’t want to put the mitt in the water, you can put it on the top grill. This is something that I actually find useful because I often drape my mitt or sponge on the top lip of my circular buckets and they do periodically fall over. One thing that I’m worried about with this feature is that it really just pressure fits around some small tabs. From the reviews that I’ve seen for this product, the tabs easily snap off at the top where it isn’t connected to anything. I can completely see this happening because if you don’t lift the grill straight up and if it’s at the slightest angle, the grill will catch the tabs. I guess I’ll just have to see how things hold up over time.

At the bottom of the bucket is another grill, but this one is more so suppose to act as a grit guard. It helps to keep dirt and debris at the bottom of the bucket and separate from the clean water. At the center of the bottom grill is a molded-in measuring cup. I really like this feature because if you’ve seen any of my car soap review videos, you’d know that I always measure out my soaps with a measuring cup. This just makes the process a little easier. The only problem that I see with this measuring cup is its limited scale. The cup is sized so that filling to the first line equates to 2 ounces and filling to the top measures to 3 ounces. Because there are only two increments, you’re kind of limited in your mixing ratios. It’s also a problem if you need more than 3 ounces of car soap. What do you do then? I guess you can fill the cup up, clear it out with water, then fill it up again. This is just something that should’ve been thought out better. Most problems would’ve been solved if Griot’s simply added another one of these measuring cups in the grill. Again, I think this is an extremely useful feature but I currently mix soap at 1 ounce to one gallon of water and only use 3 gallons of water in total. So, this system is perfect for me.

At this point, I’ve had the opportunity to use this bucket for a few car washes. Overall, I think it’s a nice tool to have. No doubt it’s the best car wash bucket that I’ve used, but is it worth it? For me personally, no bucket is worth $50. The only reason that I purchased this one is because I had $50 credit to a store that had nothing that I wanted to buy. This product just randomly got recommended to me. I didn’t even know that it existed so I bought it on a whim. Even after getting it and seeing how much better it performs than a regular 5-gallon bucket, I would still say that I would personally not buy it with my own money. It just costs too much.

However, this is not me telling you not to buy the Ultimate Car Wash Bucket. If you have the money and find value in this type of thing, then go for it! It works pretty well. The pricing isn’t even all that bad when you consider the price of a bucket, rolling base, grit guard, and measuring cup. A rolling base for a standard 5-gallon bucket alone is around $40. Thinking about it this way, the price of the Ultimate Car Wash Bucket isn’t all that bad, especially for something that gives you everything in one place. But just remember, if you’re using the two bucket method, it would only make sense to have two of these buckets. Then, you’re looking at $100 worth of buckets. That’s a pretty steep price for two buckets that hold water.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Griot's Ultimate Wash Bucket https://amzn.to/3ncuj6k

The Rag Company (2-Pack Premium Cyclone Korean Microfiber Wash Mitt and 6" x 8" Cyclone Wash Pad Combo Kit https://amzn.to/36lcHiO

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

Want to support my work?

Consider visiting the shop and buying "Absolutely Nothing" https://www.HaiHoangTran.com/shop/absolutely-nothing

or

Become a Patron!
https://www.patreon.com/HaiHoangTran

or

PayPal
https://www.PayPal.me/HaiHoangTran

or

Just shop on Amazon via this link!
https://amzn.to/2FgsDnG