Review

Kobalt Quiet Tech 26-Gallon Air Compressor

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

I’ve been using a little Porter Cable pancake air compressor since, I think, middle school. It’s still going but at 6 gallons, the size is a bit limiting. I think it takes a couple of refills just to pump up four car tires. Anyway, since moving into a new garage, I knew that I wanted something larger. After some research, I’ve decided to purchase the Kobalt Quiet Tech 26-Gallon air compressor. Now, I personally am no air compressor expert. I think this is only the third one that I’ve ever owned so I don’t have a lot of knowledge about the field. For this blog, I just wanted to share with you why I decided to go with this particular compressor.

First off, if something is advertised with giant words saying “Quiet Tech” across the body, you know it’s probably going to be quiet, right? Well, it is, relatively. Kobalt advertises that this compressor is up to 80% quieter. Quieter than what? I don’t know but compared to my pancake, it is quite a bit quieter. I don’t have any scientific way of measuring sound so for my own personal testing, I downloaded a decibel meter app for the iPhone and the results can be seen and heard in the video above, listen for yourself.

For this experiment, I had the phone about 6 feet away from the compressors. My results showed that the Kobalt sits just about 20 decibels quieter than the Porter Cable. You can do your own research about how decibel ratings work but that is a pretty significant difference. I doubt the iPhone app is super accurate, but it does provide some frame of reference. From my personal experience, yes the Kobalt is absolutely quieter and no doubt is the quietest air compressor that I’ve ever heard. That being said, it’s still pretty far away from silent. I really don’t know what to compare it to. I would say that it’s quiet enough for me to stand within arm’s reach away, hold a conversation, and barely raise my voice over normal levels. If I did this with the Porter Cable, I would definitely have to raise my voice, practically yelling. So, it’s quiet, but not something that you don’t know is there.

In terms of design, everything is functional and operation is just about the same as every other air compressor. There are two gauges, one for tank pressure and the other to show the regulated output pressure, a regulator, two output quick-connect couplers that work with industrial-sized fittings, and the on/off switch and pressure release valve is on the right side. Again all pretty straightforward. The only thing that I find annoying about this compressor is the water release port that’s located about dead center at the bottom of the tank. This is actually a good and bad thing. Good because all the water in the tank naturally moves down towards this outlet because it sits at the bottom of a curve. This is a bad thing because it’s just a little bit more inconvenient to access. I’m likely just going to take the stock fitting off and replace it with a hose so I can drain the tank without constantly rolling it outside.

At this point, I’ve only had the Kobalt compressor for a few days and have only tested it by airing up some tires so I don’t have too much to say about use. I’ll come back with a more in-depth review at a later time so subscribe for that.

And that’s going to be it for now. So far so good. The Kobalt Quiet Tech Air Compressor is quieter than what I previously used and holds significantly more air. No real complaints yet and hopefully things stay that way. I’m hoping to do a lot of projects in the future that will involve this thing so I hope you’ll be around for that.


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Lee Sporting AR Style Lower for the H&K MP5

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

Because I primarily shoot 9mm, the H&K MP5 is pretty up there if not my favorite firearm. This is just one of the smoothest, soft shooting, and overall easy-to-handle firearms. However, I’m not a die-hard fanboy, pun not intended. Although the radial delayed blowback operating system is fantastic, there are shortcomings elsewhere, at least compared to more modern options.

First and foremost, the lack of a last round bolt hold open. That just is what it is. If you want an MP5, you just gotta understand that. Another issue that I have with the MP5 is just the entire lower. At the back, we have an integrated, molded into the lower, grip. This is going to be a hit or miss depending on the user. Me personally, the grip angle of a stock MP5 is a bit too angled back for my taste but it’s something that I can deal with. Moving forward, we have the safety. With this particular lower and safety, the safety is extremely stiff and basically impossible to use with my right thumb. When I want to use the safety, I actually use my left hand. With my right hand, the safety switch is not the right shape so it only catches the edge of my thumb. This doesn’t allow me to employ any leverage. Because of this, I pretty much always leave the safety off on this MP5 because if I had to defend myself with this firearm, I wouldn’t want to put myself at a disadvantage having to deactivate this safety. Finally, we have the trigger. I think it’s universally agreed that the MP5 trigger isn’t that great. It’s pretty heavy, pretty mushy, and there’s a lot of travel. It’s functional but leaves a lot to be desired. But that’s kind of the theme with the entire MP5 lower. All of it is functional but leaves a lot to be desired.

Really, all of these problems can be fixed by hitting the aftermarket and buying new parts. I personally haven’t because I haven’t found anything that I like. That is until recently when YouTube randomly advertised to me this video, asking about a Geissele SD3G AR trigger in an MP5. I was very intrigued and after some research, it turns out that Lee Sporting, the people who made that video, actually makes aftermarket lowers that essentially allow you to run AR parts on an MP5. My mind was blown by this and I had to try this lower for myself.

Lee Sporting offers housings for the various MP5 variations out there so there should be something that fits most people’s needs. I received a comment from a viewer that does a good job of explaining the various versions of the MP5 lower attachment systems and will include it here for those who need it.

You can either buy a complete lower or a stripped lower. A complete lower comes with a grip, safety, and trigger pre-assembled. Installing the complete lower is one of the easiest installs you can do as the entire lower stays together in one piece and is held in place by only two pins. Even if you purchase the stripped lower and have to install your own parts, the lower is an AR-styled lower so installation for all the parts is basically the same as on an AR-15. Again, pretty straightforward. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube if you need help. I do want to note that there are some requirements as far as what parts will fit in these lowers so if you are interested in a stripped lower, definitely read the description of the product. All the necessary information is laid out there.

Alright, now that we got all the informational stuff out the way, what’s actually use of this product like? In terms of shooting with it, I can’t say because I haven’t had the chance to live fire with this lower yet. I’m recovering from an injury that’s affecting my shooting hand so I’m letting that heal. It’s also raining quite a bit so I haven’t been able to get to the mountains and do anything fun. For this video, I was pretty excited to share the lower with you guys so this is more of a first impressions. I’ll come back with a more in-depth review in the near future so make sure to subscribe for that.

Now, how’s the Lee Sporting lower in terms of improving the MP5? For me, great. The Lee Sporting lower solves all the problems that I had with a stock MP5 lower. First of all, with the Magpul MOE K grip that was included in my lower, I get an overall more comfortable shooting position. Not only that but this lower actually moves the grip slightly higher and more forward. From my experience, this does help with the overall balance and feel of the gun in hand. Something interesting that I did notice was that because everything is now a bit more forward, I’m actually now able to use the side mag release button of the MP5. This was basically useless to me before because it was too far away but now that it is functional, I can do some more practical mag changes.

Something else that’s more practical is the safety. It’s actually now usable and is as easy to use as it would be on an AR. It’s light enough for me to flick with my thumb and I’m now able to use this thing without worrying about it slowing me down if the firearm is actually ever needed to be used in a defensive scenario.

In terms of the trigger, this particular lower came with the Geissele SD3G. I have this trigger in my Primary Weapons Systems AR so it’s nothing new to me. However, having it here in the MP5, it’s a night and day difference compared to the stock trigger. Obviously, trigger feel is very subjective so I don’t want to blatantly say that this is better but I will say that the Lee Sporting lower gives you more opportunity to find something that does work for you. The AR platform is extremely popular and has massive aftermarket support. There are so many options out there and this lower allows for the opportunity to use many of them. The stock MP5 lower, on the other hand, there is really only a few handful of options and as with many other MP5 specific things, the price can get pretty high. This Geissele is relatively expensive, but you don’t have to go with this. There are plenty of other options that are more budget-friendly. One thing that I do want to comment on is the minor attention to detail that went into the Geissele that Lee Sporting installed. To get the SD3G to work in this lower, you have to file some edges down for proper clearance. I knew this but didn’t expect for Lee Sporting to actually polish the hammer the way they did. This type of attention to detail is just something that I appreciate.

Overall, I’m very happy with this lower. It really improves the utility of an MP5 for me. But I know that this isn’t going to be for everyone, especially the traditionalists out there who think that the MP5 is fine the way it is and that we shouldn’t try to turn it into an AR. That’s perfectly fine and I can appreciate that. However, I personally try to make all my firearms as practical as possible for my uses. I personally love the MP5 because of the radial delayed blowback, not necessarily because of the MP5 clout. So, if I have the radial delayed blowback and can make the controls more functional for me, I’m going to do that. This lower provides me with just what I need to get that done. So, if you have a similar mindset then the Lee Sporting lower for the MP5 is definitely something that I can recommend. This thing is such a game-changer for me. It takes something that I already love in the MP5 and makes it even better. Now, if someone can ever figure out last round bolt hold open, then I’d pretty much have my perfect firearm but I don’t think that day is coming any time soon if ever so for now, we have the Lee Sporting lower.


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Eufy Smartdrop | Smart Delivery Package Drop Box

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

I personally get a good amount of package. I would prefer to be able to receive packages at home but sometimes the timing just doesn’t work out. Things can sit outside and possibly be stolen. So when I discovered that you can now get a smart delivery dropbox, I was all over it and this is just that, the eufy Smartdrop.

In short, this is a metal box that is openable via a 4-6 digit code, physical key, or the eufy app as the Smartdrop can connect to a wifi network. The SmartDrop also has a built-in 1080p camera for you to track when it’s in use or for general security monitoring. It is powered by a rechargeable battery or you can hardwire it for constant power.

The Smartdrop comes with concrete anchors and bolts for a more secure mounting solution. You can just put it outside without anchoring it if you want, but just remember that the entire box only weighs about 40lbs so it’s not exactly difficult to just walk off with the entire thing if it’s not anchored down.

On-screen, you can see the manufacturer’s advertised dimensions and eufy advertises that the SmartDrop is large enough to fit 99% of packages. Obviously, that just depends on what you’re ordering but the Smartdrop has been working out pretty well for me in terms of its size.

Overall, this is a pretty straightforward product. Sure, it has a bunch of settings that you can adjust but day to day, this thing just sits there, someone comes and punches in the code, it opens, they leave the package, close the box and leave. The package sits there until you retrieve it. Pretty straightforward. There are videos out there that fully break down the app features and everything that you can do with the Smartdrop so I suggest you check those videos out if you’re interested in that. What I want to do is to share my experience with the SmartDrop and if I think it’s worth buying.

Let’s start off with general use. Because a security lock box isn’t exactly a common thing for residential use, will something like the SmartDrop even be used by shipping carriers? From my experience, this is a hit or miss. Since having the SmartDrop, I’ve had deliveries from all the major shipping companies and adoption definitely varies. No doubt, the people who use the SmartDrop the most are the people that repeatedly deliver to my address. For me, this means my regular Amazon and UPS guy.

Now, you may be wondering how you give the access code to the delivery people. eufy recommends that you add it to the address line 2 of your shipping address, the place where you typically write suite or apartment number. From my experience, you can do this but the delivery people are not always going to take the time to look or read through the label. What I did was to also make some high-vis signs, one at the front door in case they walk past the giant box and one right next to the box. Both signs reiterate important instructions. I’ve found that this really helps but again not perfect because, at the end of the day, some of these delivery people are just going through the motion, trying to get through the day. Some have made up their mind and plan to put the package at the door and nothing’s going to change that. I’ve even had some people instead of trying to put it in the box, they literally put it right next to the box without even trying. From my experience, every courier has people who are willing to use the box and people who aren’t. The best that I can do is to talk to my regulars and ask them to use the box. This helps as my regular Amazon and UPS guys make the effort when possible.

At the time of this video, I’ve used the Smartdrop for over 3 months and I want to share some of the issues that I’ve experienced. Right off the bat, right after installation and after putting the box outside, for whatever reason my lid kept having trouble opening. The SmartDrop has some voice prompts and mine kept telling me that the lid may be stuck and to try again. For whatever reason, the lid always got stuck on the first try and would open on the second or third attempt. I was worried about this but the issue just resolved itself and the box worked as it should by the next day. However, this touches on another issue. If for whatever reason a delivery person can’t open the box, they’ll usually try a second, MAYBE third time, and will usually give up. This can be because the lid is stuck or because they put in the wrong access key. If it takes multiple tries, the delivery people will usually give up. So, if there’s already something wrong with the lid and it won’t open on the first try, the chances of the delivery people using it will dramatically decrease. Just remember, these people are on the clock and don’t have all day to deal with some security box.

When it comes to the code, I’ve noticed a few things that have been an issue for me. First, I don’t know what it is but some people just can’t seem to open the box with the code. I don’t know if it’s user error and they’re just entering the code wrong, or the code is actually wrong on the label because that is definitely possible. In the beginning, I noticed that some Amazon people just could not punch in the right code. I asked some what they were punching in and they said the wrong number. For some reason Amazon was only displaying 5 out of the 6 digits. This is exclusively a problem with Amazon and I wish I can say why but it seems to be a random sporadic problem.

Next, let’s talk about weather. The SmartDrop is IP65 rated and eufy advertises “weatherproof”. Prior to buying the SmartDrop, I watched reviews where people mentioned that during freezing temperatures, the latch mechanism can freeze and not open. I personally have not had this problem and my Smartdrop has been out in the rain one day and snow the next so theoretically, if the lid were to freeze shut, this would’ve been the time. However, I had another problem. During my mini snowstorm, I guess enough of the snow got around the buttons, melted, then froze all buttons. I didn’t know that this was a thing until I saw an Amazon delivery person outside going at it on the box. When she saw that the buttons were frozen, she even tried to melt the ice with her breath. Then she called us so were could get the package instead of just leaving it outside at night. You gotta appreciate a hard worker like this. Later, I went to check on the Smartdrop and sure enough, it was frozen solid. The buttons didn’t even want to move. When I saw that this issue was possible, I was pretty bummed because it’s very likely going to happen again considering my environment. To solve this issue, I can move the SmartDrop under my porch where it would be out of the rain and snow but I really don’t want to do that because it’s a big ol’ box that is somewhat unsightly next to the door. I put it where it currently is with the plan to grow the surrounding bushes out so they camouflage it. But if the box is going to freeze shut and not be usable, I might just have to move it under the porch.

So over the last few months of use, those are the main issues that I’ve had. Hard to say if they’re deal breakers because I have had a lot of use from this box. I think what ultimately determines things for me is the price. The SmartDrop retails for $399.99. Even as someone who enjoys this product quite a bit, I would say that that is a bit much. However, as with all eufy products, it will go on sale. I held out from buying this product when it came out because, again, $400 is a bit much. After about a month of price watching, I saw the Smartdrop go down to $300. Then, $250. Then, $200, which is how much I purchased it for. I have seen the Smartdrop sit around $200 quite often now so I would definitely recommend picking it up for around that price if you can wait for one of the sales. When in doubt, wait for a holiday because eufy always has sales. It may not be on the SmartDrop so you may have to wait a few holidays but if you want a deal, wait it out. I guarantee you that it will go on sale.

So, at $200, I would say that this product is worth it. It provides me with a sense of security and assurance that I’m willing to pay for. It’s not functional 100% of the time but that’s mostly a problem with the delivery people. They just aren’t trained to work with such a device but hopefully, that will change in the future. I guess I’ll be the guinea pig and help to introduce such a device, at least with the delivery people that I interact with.


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Shadow Systems CHPWS Holosun HE509T Adapter Plate

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

This is my Shadow Systems MR920 War Poet 2.0 Edition and mounted on top is the Holosun HE509T-RD X2. If you’re unfamiliar with these two products, with Shadow Systems, a major selling point is their optic cut that allows users to mount optics with a wide variety of footprints. This is done by cutting an overly large space into the slide, then using spacers to fill the gap depending on the optic footprint. The system isn’t perfect but does offer the least amount of compromises in my opinion. However, with the 590T, this is a closed emitter red dot that doesn’t allow you to screw it in place from the top down like many open emitter red dots. Instead, you would typically install the provided plate that has an RMR footprint on the bottom onto your slide that’s cut with an RMR footprint. This plate has the proprietary 509T lugs on the top, so this plate essentially allows you to convert the RMR footprint to the 509T footprint. Finally, you tighten a bolt from the side of the 509T and it clamps onto the top lugs of the adapter plate.

In terms of mounting a red dot onto a handgun, although simple, that’s kind of a convoluted process. Especially so if you’re slide is cut for another footprint. This means that you’ll have to get another adapter plate to convert whatever you have to the RMR footprint, then the RMR footprint to the 509T footprint. So, what you get is stacking multiple plates on top of each other which is not exactly ideal. Not only would the mounting system be structurally weaker, but the optic would sit very high. It’s already difficult to co-witness now with my suppressor height sights, I can’t imagine stacking even more plates. The best way to mount the 509T is probably to get a slide direct milled for the 509T but obviously, that comes with its own cons. I wasn’t sure how committed I was to this optic so I wasn’t going to do that. Especially considering that I run the 509T on the Shadow Systems so that wouldn’t have been possible anyway.

For a long time, that mounting process was just what you had to do. Until recently, when C&H Precision released an adapter plate that allows you to go directly from the Shadow Systems footprint to the 509T footprint. This means no RMR adapter plate and no spacers are needed. The benefit of this would mean a stronger connection between the slide and the optic.

Unfortunately, I can’t show you the install process for this plate as that would go against YouTube’s terms and service because it can be misconstrued as modifying a firearm but if you’ve ever mounted a red dot it’s essentially that. The plate is held in place by two T10 screws and that’s about it. But if you want to have a little more peace of mind, you can use a torque driver and torque the screws down to 10 in-lbs as suggested by CHPWS. I have a torque screwdriver from Olsa Tools that I keep around for torquing red dot and scope rings and it does the job. I find using this screwdriver is easier than something like the Wheeler Fat Wrench because, with this, you can precisely set the torque value whereas the Fat Wrench has a bar that raises up and down with no exact indicator as to what value it’s set to. This Olsa Tools toque screwdriver is a nice item to have if you install a lot of optics.

Now that my 509T is reinstalled with the new CHPWS plate, I have to say that I’m pretty happy with how things turned out. The fit and finish are fantastic and as someone who’s had a lot of time with this combo and has looked at it a lot, I would say that aesthetically, the gun looks a lot better. The new plate just makes things look like they belong together.

In terms of this specific combo, the Shadow System optic cut and the 509T mounting system, I do want to note that this isn’t exactly supported. In the past, Shadow System has put out statements saying that the 509T doesn’t mount properly on their optic cut and that’s largely because of the screws. The Shadow Systems slide mounting holes thread pitch is a specific diameter, one that does not match the thread pitch of the screws that come with the 509T. So what you end up having to do is use the screws that come with the Shadow System optic cover plate and hope that that works. This definitely is a hit or miss as some fit and some don’t. My Shadow Systems screws didn’t fit the 509T adapter plate properly and were a bit oversized. I had to bore the holes of the plate out just a bit for the screws to fit. This is not the case with the new CHPWS setup because they provided exact fitting screws. With the old setup and because the screws were oversized, you can see them sticking out from the sides. That’s not the case anymore. Everything is slick and streamlined.

I also want to point out that with the old setup, the spacer was in the rear and CHPWS has moved it to the front with their plate. From my research, this is more of a durability thing. People will argue that with the forces that the slide and optic endure during recoil, having the spacer up front with be able to endure that energy better than having it in the back. I don’t know. It’s worked for me in the back but I would say that it looks better in the front. There’s less of a gap between the optic and the rear sights so I’m happy with that.

To conclude things, if you’re a Shadow Systems user with the newer universal mounting footprint and you want to use the Holosun 509T, this CHPWS plate is the absolute way to go. Spend the money and do it right. Forget about the included plate, just go with this.


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Wall Control Metal Pegboard Firearm Wall Mount Panels

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

I recently made a video showing the Wall Control panels that I installed in my garage and gym. In short, Wall Control is a metal pegboard option that includes holes for the typical pegboard hooks and also slots to be used with the proprietary Wall Control accessories.

Aside from being used as a way to hang up tools, I have seen Wall Control being shown a lot as a way to display firearms and that’s what I’ve decided to do with the last two panels that I had.

So, here they are. What you’re looking at is two Wall Control 32” x 16” panels, making essentially a 32” x 32” square. Installation of the panels is fairly straightforward, just drill and screw them into the wall.

For size reference, I have up top a CZ Scorpion Evo 3 S1 with an HB Industries 5.3″ Micro K Barrel swap. In the middle is a Century Arms AP5 so essentially a standard length MP5. At the bottom is an AR-15, the Radian Model 1 chambered in 300 Blackout and a 9” barrel. Finally, I have a couple of suppressors hung up, the CGS Mod9 and Dead Air Wolfman.

To hang the firearms up, I’m using the Wall Control 3” U-Shape Slotted hooks. I find that these fit all my firearms from the PCCs to ARs pretty much perfectly. They are just the right size to hold the firearms up straight without them leaning from side to side. I also have the Wall Control 4” U-Shape Slotted hooks but do find these are a bit too big for my firearms. However, if you have a particularly wide stock or forend, you may want to look into the 4” hooks or another option.

One thing that I do recommend is to pick up some rubber hook liners. They help to keep things from sliding around but more importantly to help prevent damage from metal-on-metal contact. Wall Control offers some under the Wall Control branding but it’s about $10 for 3’. That is pretty expensive considering that I paid about $12 for 10’. You may not need that much material and you can buy the liners in shorter lengths, but I’m just saying that there are other options. From the pictures, I can almost assure you that it’s basically the same thing. I’m pretty sure Wall Control just bought the liners in bulk and is reselling them under their own name. I mean at the end of the day, it’s just rubber edge trim, not some special proprietary product.

To hang up my suppressors, I found some pegboard double hooks. They’re rubber coated so should offer protection without needing anything else.

And there you have it, Wall Control panels for use with firearms. I’m pretty happy with the way that these panels turned out but I do want to point out a few things. First, you may have noticed that my setup is a sea of black on black so everything kind of blends in. I kind of knew this going into it. These black panels are spares so I already had them laying around. I didn’t buy them specifically for this project. If I did, I might buy them in a different color and Wall Control does offer them in a wide variety of colors. There are even some companies selling custom-painted panels so look out for that if you don’t want the black-on-black look like I have here. Something else to think about is a lock system if that’s something you care about. You can get some metal tabs that will allow you to lock the trigger guard or whatever else to the Wall Control panels. These aren’t exactly foolproof but do help to slow would-be thieves down a bit.

Overall, I can definitely give this type of setup a recommendation if you’re looking for a way to hang your firearms up on the walls. The panels look pretty clean once you get everything up and I would say I’m happy with everything.


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