Review

EAST OAK Smokeless Pan Stove Fire Pit 29"

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

It’s still very rainy, wet, and cold here in Washington but I’m currently making plans for a fire pit area on the property. After some research, I’ve decided on the East Oak Pan Stove Fire Pit. This particular one is the Chisel Steel 29” version but there is also a 17” and 21” version. All three sizes are also available in a black finish.

If you don’t hang out outside a lot, this may not be what you’d think a fire pit would look like. You’re probably more familiar with the concrete circle or some other options. But in recent years, these newer stainless steel-style fire pits have really taken off and that’s largely because many will claim to be smokeless.

This is achieved by utilizing a double-walled design with vent holes toward the top of the inner wall. As you burn wood or whatever else, that first burn will cause some smoke to rise but some of it will travel through the gaps between the walls and escape out the small holes. This escaping smoke will get burned again, essentially eliminating it.

However, a key factor in all this is going to be how hot or big the fire is. The fire has to be pretty strong to get that second burn going. A nice thing about the East Oak design is that it features a bunch of oxygen intakes around the entire base and directly under the fire pit. All these intakes should really help to oxygenate the fire and help it get hot enough for that second burn.

That’s a pretty common design for these smokeless fire pits but an annoyance to me is that this design generally does not produce a lot of heat outwards but instead projects it upwards. This means that if you’re standing up and are close to the fire pit, then your upper body will be warm but your lower legs and feet won’t get much. So if you’re sitting down, you’re really only enjoying the ambiance of the fire, not so much the warmth. Some manufacturers have created workarounds for this like Solo Stove and their heat deflector shields but I personally think this is stupid. The heat deflector adds extra bulk, is unsightly, and costs an additional couple hundred bucks on top of an already expensive fire pit.

But times have changed and there are manufacturers claiming to make smokeless fire pits that adequately radiate heat outwards without any add-ons, one of them being East Oak. I don’t particularly understand the science behind it but this is apparently accomplished because the East Oak design features a wider circular base that gets smaller towards the top and the opening turns into a more square shape. Again, I don’t really understand how that works but it supposedly does and I’ll test that out a bit later.

In terms of assembly, this fire pit is pretty much ready to go. You have the main fire pit body, the ashtray that sits inside the fire pit, and the flame ring that sits on top. There really isn’t much to putting this fire pit together.

At this point, I’ve had a chance to use the fire pit and burn wood in it and I want to talk about how that went.

I burned a bundle of wood that I purchased from a local Safeway. It’s been sitting outside under the patio for the last couple of months and was dry. I burned the whole bundle at once just to make things faster. My 29” fire pit not only has a large opening, but it’s also deep. Allowing for a lot of wood to be burned at once. My bundle looked like nothing in there.

In terms of being smokeless, it certainly isn’t smokeless throughout the entire experience. When the fire first starts, there will still be smoke that’s blowing around and that’s not something exclusive to the East Oak but pretty much any fire pit. However, once the wood really started to burn, I did notice that there really was no trace of the smoke. This is the case even though I never witnessed any secondary burn. Maybe I didn’t have enough wood burning? I can’t really say so this will require some more testing.

In terms of East Oak advertising that this fire pit is able to radiate heat sideways, this is a hit or miss depending on how you want to look at it. I personally feel that there was no heat radiating directly to the sides of the fire pit. I can put my hands right up to the sides and basically feel no difference. The metal itself gets quite hot if you try to touch it but it weirdly does not put off any noticeable heat. The chairs that you see in the video above are less than 2 feet away from the fire pit and I was originally worried that they were too close and would get damaged by the heat but that is absolutely not a concern anymore. The chairs stayed chilled the entire time from ambient temperature, never even getting warm. However, if I were to sit at the edge of a chair and my body pokes above the top of the fire pit, then I’d feel A LOT of heat. Being about 2 feet away, the heat is almost unbearable. I would say that standing up and stepping back to 4-5 feet away, I can still feel the warmth on my torso, arms, and head but, again, nothing on my legs. I kind of want to give East Oak the benefit of the doubt and say that this fire pit may radiate more heat if more wood was burned at once, but I feel that I did put in a decent amount. If I had to burn two or three of those bundles at once just to get some lateral heat then this isn’t exactly the most efficient way of keeping warm. Take all that information as you will.

At the end of the day, how do I feel about this East Oak fire pit? As a mostly smokeless fire pit, it gets a pass because it does the job even when the secondary burn didn’t kick in and who knows? When it does things may be even better. As a fire pit that will keep you warm, well that depends on if you want to sit or stand all night. I personally bought this fire pit because it was advertised as being able to radiate heat outwards and in this case, I would say that the East Oak is a total failure. I do not recommend it if you are buying this fire pit to keep yourself warm while sitting down. It just won’t cut it. To me, the question of buying the East Oak all comes down to price. I personally bought it on sale for about $200 and that price for a 29” smokeless fire pit is crazy value. However, when not on sale this fire pit regularly sits around $400-$500. For that price, I would personally not buy this fire pit and just go with a Solo Stove Yukon which is in the same price range but the Solo Stove is better supported in the sense that more companies make accessories for it and you can do more with it.

And that’s going to be it. I’m going to continue and use my East Oak fire pit. I kind of know what it’s capable of now and what I want to use it for so I’m not too disappointed in my purchase.


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Mikolo M4 Smith Machine

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

Today we’re in my home gym because I’m excited to show you the newest addition to my setup, the Mikolo M4 Smith Machine.

Now, when I was younger and much more of a gym bro, I wholeheartedly believed that you can get everything you needed to be done, in terms of fitness, in a power rack. Squat, bench, and deadlift. That’s all that I needed and even though that got me some major gains, now that I’m older, that approach just isn’t doing it for me anymore. I get bored.

So, I’ve been in the market for some sort of cable machine so that I can keep myself more stimulated with accessory lifts, to go along with the big 3 lifts that I still do. In comes the Mikolo M4 plated loaded Smith Machine with cable attachments.

Full disclosure, Mikolo Fitness contacted me and offered to send this unit out for review. I accepted and got this machine for free but that does not affect my opinions or the review of this product. Mikolo does not get to see this review prior to release and all thoughts are my own.

This entire machine came to me in 4 large boxes at about 100 lbs each. Shipping took about four days which is not too bad considering how much material had to be moved around. However, I do think that shipping can be improved because essentially every part that arrived had some sort of scratch or cosmetic damage. I personally feel that because this is gym equipment, it’s going to get damaged through use pretty quickly so I don’t really care about the scratches, but something that I do want to note is that pretty much every part that arrived has some form of rust on it. Everything that’s not power coated is rusting from the inside out and I’m assuming that this is because of the storage location where these machines are kept prior to shipment. Maybe it’s too humid. Who knows but that’s not a good look. Rust is not something I do not want to see on a high-dollar purchase and definitely not something possibly holding hundreds of pounds.

Upon first unboxing, the task of assembly is going to look pretty daunting but hey, if I can put this thing together, I’m sure you can too. The instruction manual is pretty straightforward and I would say largely easy to follow. I say largely because some of the images can get pretty busy with all the parts and it can take some time to decipher exactly which part is needed. It also doesn’t help that I had some minor hardware was missing from where they’re supposed to be but luckily there was a bag of loose spare parts that had what I needed.

With something like this, the more hands you got helping, the faster and easier it’s going to be. I feel that I could’ve gotten this entire machine assembled by myself but it definitely would’ve taken a lot more time. For reference, my brother stopped by to help and he was with me for only about an hour and a half and we got essentially 90% of the job done. When he left I was on the last two pages of the instructions and it was really just minor, simple things. I think the most time-consuming part of all of this was just looking for the part that was needed because they were just scattered throughout the boxes. The parts that needed to be assembled together were often in different boxes and often hidden under other parts. Some parts were also mislabeled. So again, looking for everything just wasted a lot of time. Something else that was a bit weird was the order of assembly. There were a few moments where we would assemble something, move forward a few steps, then all of a sudden go back to continue something we already left. All of these things made the entire assembly process a bit annoying but still very manageable.

Now, if you’re getting this machine around the same time as I do, you may notice the item title mentioning that this is the 2023 version. Again, I have the Mikolo M4. M4 stands for multi-function Smith Machine, 4th generation and I think that name is pretty fitting because this machine is absolutely multi-function. First and foremost, this is a Smith Machine. It has an Olympic-sized bar that rides on two rails. Now, I’m going to straight up say that I personally, don’t use a Smith Machine. I don’t think I’ve used one since middle school and that’s because it just didn’t fit into my free weight style of working out. Of course, you can essentially do any free-weight style barbell exercises with a Smith Machine but the two are not the same. With a Smith Machine, it’s like you’re lifting on the moon because the bar’s weight and its speed of movement are reduced quite a bit depending on the machine. The bar also always travels in a perfectly straight up-and-down direction because again, it’s guided along on both sides by the rails. This is unnatural because your body doesn’t travel perfectly up and down. Whether it’s a squat, bench, overhead press, or whatever, when you’re using free weights, you’re going to be moving slightly in all directions as your body works to balance the weight. This, in general, is better at building strength, and it promotes balance and more practical control of your body. The Smith Machine really reduces your ability to make these gains. All that being said, there is a time and place for the Smith Machine. To me, it’s much more user-friendly. People who aren’t as dedicated to lifting or maybe those who are intimidated by free weights have this option because again, it’s easier. You even have a built-in spotter so it’s much harder to hurt yourself. If you’re lifting too heavy and feel like the weight’s going to come down on you, all you have to do is flick your wrist, and the bar hooks onto one of the many safeties. As of right now, I can only think of using the Smith function as a modified leg press but I think that this is something that my wife and her sisters are really going to love.

What makes me really excited about this Mikolo Smith Machine is actually everything else. All of its other functions. With the Mikolo Smith Machine, you’ll get a multi-grip position pull-up bar, a landmine attachment, dip attachments, and even J-hooks and safeties for the outer uprights which will allow you to use this rack as a standard barbell rack if you want to use free weights. So you can get the best of both words.

But on top of all this and what really gets me going is the cable attachments. On this M4 Smith Machine, you’ll get a pulley system on both the left and right sides of the rack. My Smith Machine came packaged with various bars and attachments and this is opens me up to so many possibilities in terms of accessory lifts. I can attach this longer bar and do lat pulldowns. Which is made even easier with the included leg hold-down attachment. This is something that I don’t often see with functional trainers or rack cable systems so this inclusion is nice. With this shorter straight bar, I can sit on the floor with my feet against the footboard pads and do rows. With these grips, I can do flys. Then, of course, you are not limited to just the accessories that come with the M4, you can buy your own attachments and get even more out of this machine. I cannot tell you how many exercises that can be done with just this pully system alone. Not to mention that the pulleys are adjustable in height so you can change up positions and get even more variations in exercises.

Then just when you think that this rack already has so much, there’s more. There are little additions that help to elevate this machine even higher. Things like the band peg, so you can change the resistance in some lifts. Or the battle rope attachment to add a form of cardio. Or the plate storage pins and barbell holder. This is something that I really appreciate as someone who’s had to buy a weight tree as an add-on for my other power rack.

Overall, the setup is great, but there are a few things that I think could be better. First, from the product page, something that Mikolo seems to like to highlight is the addition of the storage hooks that are meant to be used as a way to organize and store attachments and anything else that fits. However, I think that this is a pretty lazy addition and kind of a waste of space. You have this entire back section of the rack that’s empty and all you can think of in terms of storage is four hooks. Granted this is an area where many manufacturers fall short on. They often forget this back section and leave it blank and that’s understandable in terms of cost savings but it is something that can be improved upon. I mean, if this is the route that you want to go with, can you give at least one of two more rows of hooks? This will allow users to store more accessories while adding cross-members which will make this whole thing even sturdier.

Speaking of sturdiness, the maximum capacity of the whole machine is supposedly up to 2200 lbs, and it’s constructed from 80mm x 40mm “commercial thickness steel tube”. Take that as you will. I personally don’t even have 2200lbs of weight plates so can’t test that out but I will say that I think this machine can take as much weight as a logical person would consider using with it. With the Smith function, I wouldn’t doubt being able to throw like 400 hundred pounds on there. With the cable system, most people won’t logically load more than one or two hundred pounds because that’s really heavy for most cable exercises. The biggest lifts done with a cable system are likely lat pulldowns or rows and I think this machine can handle what most people will be able to pull. The only function that is somewhat questionable for heavy weights is if you want to use this rack for free weights with a barbell. Again, the uprights are 80mm x 40mm which equates to about 3”x1.5”. This is noticeably smaller than the more standard 3”x3” steel tubing of a decent power rack. So, I don’t know if I would want to squat four, let alone five hundred pounds in this thing. I’m not going to test the limits because I have a dedicated power rack that I lift heavier in and I don’t want to possibly die doing something stupid.

Overall, this Mikolo M4 Smith Machine offers so much that, to be honest, I wish that I didn’t buy my standard cage and had just gone with a multi-function trainer like this in the first place because this machine offers unbelievable value for the money. It is one machine that fulfills so many needs and wants, all while taking up about the same amount of space as just my power rack. Again, there are a few changes that I would like to see but for the $1200-$1500 price depending on the package that you go with, I think this thing is hard to beat. For someone looking for an all-in-one weightlifting station, someone looking for a Smith Machine, a cable machine, and a barbell rack, the Mikolo M4 is something to strongly consider.


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How To Fill REP Fitness Sandbags

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

I recently added these REP Fitness sandbags to the home gym and in this blog, I want to talk about how I filled them.

Now, you may think that “Hey, they’re called sandbags so I can just fill them with sand” and you can definitely do that, but it’s not the best approach. The problem with sand is that it’s generally very dusty. So if you just fill your bags up purely with sand, when you’re working out, every time you move the bags you may get a face full of dust which is obviously not ideal and not very good for your health. Sand also tends to hold moisture and again, not ideal because you’ll likely be sweating all over these bags.

With these REP Fitness sandbags, you actually get an internal bladder that you use to hold whatever filler you want and that goes inside the more durable external bag that you pull around.

From my research, the best approach seems to be to fill the sandbags up with a mixture of pea gravel and rubber mulch. I personally picked both of these up from my local Lowe’s but these supplies can be found at various other home improvement or garden centers.

For the mixture itself, you’re shooting for a ratio of 2/3 pea gravel to 1/3 rubber mulch. You can take that as seriously as you want but I personally eyeballed the ratio. The pea gravel is where you’re going to get the main source of weight for the sandbags and the rubber mulch is really just a filler. It helps to take up space so that you get a fuller internal bladder. This helps to prevent the internal bladder from sloshing and bouncing around inside the outer bag.

When I purchased my pea gravel, it was actually pretty dirty so I dumped it in a 5-gallon bucket and just sloshed it around with some water, then laid it out to dry. This is completely optional.

After that, I put the gravel back into the 5-gallon bucket, a little at a time, while mixing in the rubber mulch. Again, you’re shooting for a ratio of 2/3 pea gravel and 1/3 rubber mulch. To make it easier for myself, I would periodically dump this mixture into the internal bladder.

I personally got a medium and large sandbag. The consensus online seems to be to run 40lbs in the medium sandbag and 80lbs in the large sandbag. These are just recommended numbers but I can say that these weights do work out pretty well.

Now, to figure out how much weight is in each bladder or how much weight each sandbag weighed, I just periodically put it on a scale and weighed it. Remember, both the bladder and outer bag add weight so depending on how exact you’re trying to be, just remember to compensate for those things.

And that’s about it. What I’ve shown you in this video is slightly more complicated than just filling these sandbags up with sand but I think it’ll be worth it in the long run. These are my first sets of sandbags and I’m still trying to work them into my workouts but so far so good. They seem to be very well constructed and should last a while.


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Titan Fitness Loadable 15-In Olympic Dumbbell Handle

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

Over the past few months, I’ve been putting together a home gym. It’s coming along but one thing that I’ve desperately been needing is a dumbbell setup. Well, I decided to pick up the Titan Fitness Loadable 15 in Olympic Dumbbell Handle. If you can’t tell by the name, these are basically bare handles that you can use to load plates on and make your own dumbbells. These particular handles have a 6.25” gripping area and 2” wide sleeves that are 3.75” in length. The entire thing is 15” in overall length and weighs 8 lbs each.

Now, you may be wondering, why buy such a thing? Why not just buy dumbbells? No doubt, standalone dumbbells are the way to go if you want the most convenience and durability. However, if you’re serious and want an entire set of dumbbells without weight gaps, that’s going to easily cost hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. Not to mention the large amount of space that’s required to rack all that weight. For many people, something like this is going to be the more logical route. It may take a little more time to change weights, but you’re potentially saving money by using olympic plates that you already own and the space needed to store these handles are minimal.

As previously mentioned, these handles are 15” in overall length but more importantly, the loadable area is only 3.75” making this Titan Fitness handle one of the shortest options on the market. Titan also makes a 20” and 36” version, each of those giving you more loadable sleeve space. So why did I buy the shortest version and the version that allows you to load the least amount of weight? Well, it simply comes down to range of motion. The longer these handles get, the harder it’s going to be to use them with a neutral grip. With any standard neutral grip dumbbell press, these 15” handles allow me to go down and come back up with full range of motion as the ends of the handles just barely touch. If these handles were longer, I’m going to have to hold my arms out further to compensate for the length, meaning I won’t be able to employ the full range of motion in the exercise, which can be counterproductive to what I’m trying to accomplish. I can turn my hands at the top of the press, but then I’d be changing the exercise, which may not be what I’d want to do.

But since the loadable surface of the 15” handle is so small, how much weight can we logically load on the handle? Well, this is larely going to depend on the type of plates and collars that you use. Here in my gym, I have some cheap no-name iron plates and exclusively use the Rogue Fitness aluminum collars. With this, I’m able to load two 10 lb plates and a 5 lb plate on each side for a total of 58 lbs with the weight of the bar. This setup does not fully seat on the sleeves and leaves a few millimeters of overhang.

In terms of actual use, I find that the diameter of my 10 lbs plates make them very usable. I personally wouldn’t go any wider so I won’t be using 25 lb plates or larger.

Overall, I’m fine with my decision to go with these 15” reloadable handles. I think getting a longer handle would be more cumbersome than it’s worth so this is just about the best that I can get. However, I would say that having more loading space would be nice and Titan could easily achieve this by making the gripping area narrower and dedicating more space to the sleeves. 6.5” for the gripping area just seems wasteful as relatively few people are going to be able to fully utilize all that space. With my plates and had these sleeves been a centimeter longer, I could’ve gotten away with (3) 10 lb plates and that would’ve been more ideal. But, it is what it is. I’ll put these to good use until I’m able to get my own dumbbell rack one day.


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Kobalt Quiet Tech Air Compressor High Flow Coupler Upgrade

What’s going on guys? It’s Hai.

I recently showcased the Kobalt Quiet Tech Air Compressor that I recently purchased and in this blog, I’m going to show you the first upgrade that I did to it and that’s switching the stock industrial-sized couplers for a high-flow option. The particular couplers that I’ll be using are the Milton HighFlow Pro V Style, part number S-765.

According to Milton’s packaging, this upgrade can provide an airflow increase of up to 70%.

To remove the stock couplers, I’ve found that the easiest way is to just get a wrench in from the bottom and loosen the couplers from there. Lefty loosey, righty tighty. It’s kind of annoying doing this upgrade because there’s little clearance anywhere. You might have the urge to remove the top plate but, just take my word, there are various parts that are screwed to it. You may have more access by removing the plate but then you’ll have parts dangling and I think it would be even more difficult to torque everything down that way. So, just take your time and do a little turn at a time from the bottom.

When you get the coupler out, it’s just a matter of replacing it with the new high-flow coupler. Just remember to use some Teflon tape or other thread sealers to help prevent leaks.

Now, to really maximize airflow gains, you’re going to want to also upgrade your other fittings. I purchased a Milton kit, part number S-217 and it has the various fittings that you’ll need to connect a hose to the air compressor and tools to your hose. Then if you need more male fittings for tool connections, they are readily available online and at a very affordable price.

And that’s about it. This is a very easy install with a lot of potential gains depending on your setup. Not all tools will be able to capitalize on the increased airflow but that’s just how it is. Do your research and figure out if higher-flowing couplers can benefit your setup.


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