Toyota Supra GR Cusco Tow Hook

I recently installed the Cusco tow hooks on my A90 Supra.

This install can be extremely simple. Since these are tow hooks, they attach to the pre-tapped female threading already on the Supra. These are hidden behind the plastic covers in the front and rear bumper. To remove these covers, we just have to press the bottom of the cover and slip the top out. The cover is held in place by a plastic tether and this can be removed by giving it a little tug.

Once the cover is off, all there’s to do is screw the tow hook into place. The Cusco tow hooks come in two pieces, the main shaft which screws into the Supra and the hook itself which screws into the shaft.

If you’re satisfied with this look then the install is complete. I personally don’t like installing the tow hook this way because, without the original cover, you can see through the bumper and see the metal behind it where the tow hook installs. So, I cut out a hole in the original covers to give these tow hooks a more factory look.

To do this, I had to use some tape to find my drilling location. The goal here is to use the tape to indicate the center of the tow hook hole. Make one piece of tape run vertically down the middle of the hole. Then use another piece of tape to run horizontally across the middle of the hole. Where the tape intersects is going to be the center of the hole. Now, cut the tape on three sides and create a flap. Do your best to not lift the tape too much and make it move out of position. Now, reinstall the tow hook cover. Lay the tape back down and align the tape flap with the other pieces. At this point, you can mark the intersection or cut the final side of the tape to attach the tape intersection solely on the cover.

Remove the cover again and drill a hole where you indicated the center of the tow hook hole. This is where things get a little tricky. I drilled out a one-inch hole and this fits the shaft of the Cusco tow hook perfectly. However, I forgot that although the shaft installs parallel to the ground, this part of the bumper sits at an angle. More importantly, the tow hook cover installs at an angle. So, unless you drill out a large enough hole in the cover for the shaft to clear while reinstalling it, you’ll have to go back and forth, trimming the sides of the hole and checking fitment until everything is correct. Personally, I would recommend doing it this way anyway because drilling out a single hole would mean drilling a pretty large hole so that kind of defeats the purpose of doing this in the first place. The most precise hole is going to be more of an oval so, get your pilot hole then trim to perfect fitment.

The main difference is going to be tightening the tow hook into place. As mentioned earlier, the Cusco tow hooks come in two pieces. We first have to install the main shaft and tighten it down. At the front, there is a lot of clearance room so you can use a variety of different tools to get this done. Once it’s locked down, we screw the actual hook into the shaft. Take note of the jam nut which will allow you to adjust the spacing between the hook and the shaft. Once everything is in positioned how you want it, lock the jam nut into place. An adjustable wrench is going to be a good tool for this part of the install.

However, at the rear bumper, there is very little clearance room. An adjustable wrench is not going to fit here without damaging the bumper. To install the shaft at the rear, you pretty much have to use a six-point 24mm socket. When installing the hook into the shaft, because we can’t use an adjustable wrench to lock the jam nut down, you’ll essentially have to find a way to muscle the hook and jam it into place. I wrapped a towel around my wrench, put it in the tow hook, and just turned the entire thing. There was a lot of going back and forth, guessing and checking. This made it a bit difficult to level out the hook. Eventually, I did complete the install and the tow took was leveled enough for me to be happy with it.

And there you have it, the Cusco tow hooks installed with the OEM tow hook covers. This is a small product that adds a lot to the looks of the Supra. If you’re interested in this product, I can recommend it with a caveat. I had to order these hooks multiple times. The first time around, there were small paint chips on both hooks and the rear looked like it wasn’t prepped properly and the painter painted over something. The second set was exchanged for another and the exact same thing was present. The paint chips were still there but this time, it looked like the painter painted over some small hair fibers. So, what I’m getting at is that quality control doesn’t seem to be all that great with these tow hooks. Luckily, I ordered the hooks from Speed Industry and they were very good about making the best of the situation and getting the hooks exchanged out for me. Think about this when you go to buy the Cusco tow hooks. Can you live with some minor imperfections? If not, look elsewhere.


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Chemical Guys Mr. Pink Super Suds Car Wash Soap and Shampoo

I recently picked up a gallon of Chemical Guys Mr. Pink. This car shampoo is advertised as being excellent in both a foam cannon and a bucket. I was a bit skeptical because many car shampoos that are designed for a contact wash don’t foam too well. In the video above, I tested Mr. Pink with both methods. See for yourself how it performs.


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Toyota Supra GR OEM Carbon Fiber Mirror Caps

What’s going on guys, it’s Hai and today we are going to fix one of the most annoying things, to me, about my Supra and that is the stock mirror caps.

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If you didn’t know, there are three different mirror cap options for the A90 Supras. The 3.0 and 3.0 Premium trims have black mirror caps. The Launch Edition has red mirror caps. Then there are optional $925 carbon fiber mirror caps that can be purchased from the manufacturer.

I’m wasn’t going to blow $925 for mirror caps so I went to see what third parties manufacturers had to offer. After some research, I decided to pick up the Rexpeed carbon fiber mirror caps. Well, let me just tell you that these didn’t work out. The Rexpeed mirror caps are actually stick-ons so they adhere to the OEM mirror caps and do not replace them. This is fine if the fitment was actually correct. My Rexpeed mirror caps arrived with a lot of overhangs and excess material. It was very obvious that there was something there and I can almost guarantee that with them, if I go to do a car wash or something similar, towels, sponges or whatever will snag and pull on them. Over time, this will likely cause the adhesive to lift and that’d be no good. So, the Rexpeed mirror caps were returned.

I went back to trying to find some carbon fiber mirror caps. I went on eBay, just in case, then all of a sudden, I found a listing for some brand new unused OEM mirror caps for $300. I made an offer and after some negotiating, I got the OEM carbon fiber mirror caps for $279. That’s cheaper than many aftermarket options. Needless to say, I lucked out. BIG TIME.

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I was worried that these might be fake but you can tell if the mirror cap is OEM or not by looking at the inside. Most mirror caps will be made from one solid piece of backing. The OEM actually has a skeletonized interior structure and we can see through the various cutouts to the carbon itself. As far as I know, this is the only carbon fiber mirror cap that has this design.

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These mirror caps look so good but there is one problem with them. The passenger cap arrived with a broken mounting tab. This is where things get crazy. I contacted the seller and he was nice enough to give a full refund and let me keep the OEM mirror caps. Crazy right? $925 OEM mirror caps FOR FREE. Sure one of the tabs was broken but a quick trip to the hardware store and $6 worth of epoxy fixed things real quick.

Let’s go ahead and install the mirror caps. To do this, we first have to remove the mirror. You’ll be needing a trim pry tool or something similar. I would highly advise you to lay down some tape at the bottom edge of the mirror assembly to protect the finish from any scratches made by the pry tool. From here, use the pry tool and pry the mirror outwards. Take your time, prying along the bottom edge of the mirror. Be gentle. You don’t want to crack the mirror. That’ll add a couple extra hundred dollars to the install. Once the mirror is out, we can just let it hang for now. You can wrap it in a towel to prevent it from slipping and damaging the paint or itself.

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Now, we’re going to remove the stock mirror cap. It is held in place by three prongs and an array of tabs. To release the mirror cap, we have to lift the safety tab in between the prongs while squeezing and pushing the prongs out. It helps to get in between the mirror cap and mirror assembly towards the top and pry the two apart. If you are going to do this, lay down some more tape along the outer edges and between the gap. I found that the best way to get these prongs out is to lift the safety tab with a right angle picking, squeeze the prongs together with needle nose plyers, then pry the mirror cap from the outside as I push with the needle nose plyers. The needle nose plyers really made the mirror cap removal much easier as the prongs have indentations that seem to fit my pliers perfectly. Pushing with the pliers really gave the leverage that I needed to remove the mirror caps. Once the three prongs are disgaged, wiggle the mirror cap as you pull outwards to release the array of bottom tabs and to completely remove the mirror cap. At this point, it’s just a matter of lining up the new carbon fiber mirror cap with the mirror assembly and pushing it back in place. Make sure that the mirror cap is properly seated with the prongs engaged inside the housing and there are no inappropriate gaps. Lastly, we’re going to reinstall the mirror. That’s it for one side and all there’s left to do is repeat on the other.

And with something as simple as a mirror cap, the look of the Supra is completely changed. I actually had OEM carbon fiber mirror caps on the Renaissance Red 2.0 Supra that I owned and really missed them when I traded it for the Absolute White Supra which came with the black mirror caps. This mod is definitely one that I can recommend. I don’t know if I would recommend you paying retail for the OEM version but there are definitely some cheaper aftermarket options out there. And who knows, maybe you’ll be able to find a crazy deal as I did.

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Zippo vs Thunderbird Butane Lighter Insert

I’ve made a few different reviews for the Vector Thunderbird Butane Lighter Inserts in past:

Breathing new life into an old Zippo

Vector Thunderbird Butane Double Torch Insert

But when I saw that Zippo was making a butane lighter insert of their own, I had to pick one up.

So, which is better?


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Toyota Supra GR Paint Defect

If you’ve been keeping up with me, you’d know that I recently purchased a Toyota Supra GR in Absolute White. Well, this is technically the second Supra that I purchased. The first one was in Renaissance Red 2.0. So, what happened? Why did I get rid of the red Supra?

Well, from what I saw, this red Supra had what seemed like a paint defect. When I purchased and inspected the vehicle, it sat in direct sunlight. It was a bright sunny day so everything was very vibrant. It was also a bit difficult to actually make out everything because of all the bright reflections.

When I took the car home, the sun was setting so the light began to diffuse and wasn’t as harsh. It was a lot easier to inspect the Supra. As I looked around, I started to see all these white spots. It wasn’t water spots because I could tell that this wasn’t on a surface level. The spots looked as if they were under the clear coat. As I looked at it more and more, it really started to look like clear coat failure or delamination. It looked as if the clear coat was separating from the base coat.

I’m no paint expert but this didn’t really make sense because this is such a new car. Clearcoat failure typically only happens on old or neglected vehicles. It’s very uncommon to see it on a new vehicle, but you just never know. Anything can happen. I even thought that maybe it was just a bad paint job.

Well, I contacted the dealership immediately. They contacted the local field rep and got an official answer. Apparently, this is a known thing. I don’t want to call it an issue because Toyota doesn’t think that it’s an issue but if you didn’t know, BMW paints these Supras and according to Toyota, whatever process they use, it can result in these spots. The remedy is heat. You can either take a heat gun to the spot, stick the whole car in a paint drying booth or just let it sit out in the sun for a few months. I was told to take a heat gun and try it out for myself but to be careful because when I do this, there is a potential of burning the clear coat. I hit one spot with a heat gun, but ultimately stopped when I wasn’t feeling comfortable doing it anymore. I tried for a while and got no changes so I didn’t want to possibly burn the clear coat and be responsible for damages. Toyota was confident that they can fix it so I ultimately gave them the car back to do whatever they want with it. My dealership got me in my Absolute White Supra and I’m happier with it. I like the finish better, in general, and there’s no spotting.

For me, the decision to get rid of the red Supra was ultimately determined when I asked myself, how much trust do I want to put in what was told to me. How much am I willing to risk and believe that the issue will go away. What if it doesn’t? What if it was a case of clear coat failure? There was no contract stating that if it was clearcoat failure then Toyota will fix the damages. So maybe 5 years down the line and the clearcoat just completely flakes off, what then? I may have to pay for an entire new paint job. Am I willing to risk that? Absolutely not.

And that’s that. I just wanted to make this video and inform all potential GR Supra owners of this situation. A piece of advice, if you are buying a new Supra, examine the paint thoroughly. If you see these spots under the clearcoat, make sure that the dealership knows of them. Make sure that they are absolutely going to take care of the issue if the spots don’t go away or if there really is some form of paint defect. Get it in writing. Look out for yourself because there is a HUGE potential for a very costly repaint of the entire car.


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