MJJC Foam Cannon Pro 2.0

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I previously made a video showcasing the MJJC Foam Cannon Pro. This cannon actually turned out to be my favorite foam cannon and I’ve been using it ever since getting it. Well, I was recently contacted by MJJC and they informed me that there is now a 2.0 version and wanted to see if I wanted to review it. I, of course, did and here we are.

So, what’s different with the MJJC Foam Cannon Pro 2.0?

According to what MJJC told me, there are four major differences.

V2.0:
1. black plastic part upgraded, looks better.

2. more brass parts inside, heavier and feels better.

3. thicker foam than V1.0.

4. rotates smoother than V1.0.

The first change is that the black plastic parts are supposed to be upgraded and look better. To be honest, I don’t see this. V1 and V2 look exactly identical to me. The black plastics do not look or feel any different and the color is seemingly the same.

Change number two is that there is more brass parts inside the head. It is heavier and supposed to feel better. I don’t have a scale that measures small weights so can’t tell you the weight difference but the 2.0 does feel a slight bit heavier in hand. In this case, I just have to take the manufacturer’s word that more brass is there and that’s better.

The third change is that Foam Cannon Pro 2.0 is supposed to produce more foam than 1.0. To test this, I added 3 ounces of Chemical Guys Watermelon Snow Foam in one of the water reservoirs and filled it up to the 800ml indicator line. I’m going to show you what the foam looks like back to back. Switching from one cannon head to the other while using the same mixed soap solution. Watch the video above to see how this goes.

The differences may be hard to discern since we’re just looking at soap bubbles but from what I see, Foam Cannon Pro 2.0 does seem to produce thicker foam than 1.0. 1.0’s foam goes on thick but it flattens out quicker and starts to roll off faster. But I do have to note that this test is by no means definitive. There’s a lot of user errors that could’ve occurred. I know for sure I didn’t do the same number of spray passes and didn’t spray for the same amount of time so there isn’t an even amount of foam. There was just no realistic way of doing that. All I can say is that I did this a few times and the results seem to always show the same thing. Foam Cannon Pro 2.0 always produced slighter thicker foam.

The final change is to the head as version 2.0 is supposed to be smoother in operation than 1.0. With this, I saw no real differences. The knobs turned and did what they’re supposed to so no complaints and no points towards one or the other.

Ok, 4 supposed changes from 1.0 to 2.0. I didn’t really see that the changes to the plastic and feel of the head were worth nothing but the inclusion of more brass internals and thicker foam is a plus. Those are likely the things that most customers are going to want and the 2.0 delivers. I already thought that the Foam Cannon Pro 1.0 was the best foam cannon under $60 so the upgrades with the 2.0 just made it all the better. If you don’t have a foam cannon and are in this price range, the MJJC Foam Cannon Pro 2.0 is definitely worth a look at. If you already have the 1.0, I personally don’t think that you should go out and spend another $60 on the 2.0 but if you really want that extra bit in foam thickness, then sure. Go for it!

Now, considering that I have the Foam Cannon Pro 2.0, I want to do a giveaway for the 1.0. I will be giving this foam cannon away to a Pro Card level YouTube member. All you have to do is hit the Join button next to the subscribe button. Sign up for the Pro Card level and you’ll be entered. The winner drawing will be held when there is a minimum of 5 Pro Card members and all members at this level and above will be entered for monthly giveaways going forward. If you prefer Patreon, you can also support me there and it’s the same deal. Sign up for Pro Card level or above and you’ll be entered. These are just ways for me to give back to those who support me and help me be able to monetarily sustain this channel.

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If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

MJJC Website https://www.mjjc.com/collections/foam-cannon/foam-cannon-pro/?ref=187

MJJC Foam Cannon Pro https://amzn.to/32fjyHG

Chemical Guys Watermelon Snow Foam https://amzn.to/3a5F18Y

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

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Blackfire Foam Soap

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To be honest, I never even knew that Blackfire Foam Soap even existed until I got it as a sample as seen here. According to the label, Foam Soap is supposed to be extremely high foaming and is pH balanced which means it’ll be safe for use on previously applied paint protection coatings and won’t diminish them. This shampoo is supposed to be good for use in both a foam cannon and a bucket but considering that I only have a 2 oz sample, I could only test one of those methods. I chose the bucket because that’s going to be the most accessible route for many people.

We’re going to first start with the hand lubricity test where I essentially just run my hand through the mixed solution to see how slick it is. The directions say to add 2-3 oz of Foam Soap for every 5 gallons of water. I first stopped at 2 gallons of water and checked for lubricity. At one ounce per gallon of water, Foam Soap is ok. It’s pretty slick and would be perfectly acceptable for a contact wash. Next, filling up to 4 gallons of water, meaning 1 oz of Foam Soap per 2 gallons of water. Here, I would say that the water is still slick but I can definitely start to feel some friction. This is where I’d probably stop with the water.

After getting a chance to use Foam Soap for a contact wash, what do I think? Well, I would say that this product is kind of weird. From what I felt, I could tell that as I used the solution it got less and less slick. Again, it was weird. After a while, I kind of got nervous that it wasn’t slick enough for the state of dirtiness that the model car was in and thought that it could contribute to some contact wash scratches. If I had more of the stuff, I would’ve added more to make the solution slicker but obviously, that wasn’t an option. For me, 1 oz of Foam Soap per 2 gallons of water isn’t enough even though it is within the recommended parameters. At this point, I can’t give any advice on what an acceptable mixing ratio for this product would be because I don’t have any more to do further testings.

So the question is, would I recommend this product and the answer would be no. I can’t see myself actually spending money on this product for personal use so I can’t recommend it to anyone else. Of course, it may perform better less diluted but this product isn’t all that economical to start with. From what I’m seeing, the current pricing for Foam Soap is $24.99 for 32 oz and $45 for a gallon. That’s a lot of money for something that doesn’t perform all that well. I’d rather spend half the money on previously reviewed products from companies like Meguiar’s and Chemical Guys and still get better performance. But at the end of the day, it’s your money and you can do whatever you’d like with it.

If you’re interested in what I believe to be better quality car shampoos, check out the link below which will lead you to a list of all the auto detailing products that I use.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

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Hornady RAPiD Gun Safe

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I personally have a few different safes but I’ve been wanting a little more inconspicuous. Something that can be put in plane sight that gives me quick access to its contents without screaming that it’s a safe or in a break-in situation to “steal me”. After some research, the Hornady RAPiD Gun Safe seems to be the best option for what I was looking for.

If you couldn’t tell, this thing looks like a retro digital clock. It looks like something that people wouldn’t necessarily want to steal if they were in a dash to get in and get out with the most valuable things possible and I think that’s the biggest appeal of the Hornady RAPiD Gun Safe. It’s unassuming to say the least. But don’t let appearances deceive you. Behind the boring facade are some pretty nice features.

Constructed from 14 gauge steel and weighing in at about 18 pounds, the RAPiD Gun Safe is no slouch when it comes to build. This safe is designed to be heavy-duty and tamper-proof. But to be realistic, with enough time and if someone really wants to get into something, they’re going to do it. Something like the RAPiD Gun Safe is more intended to be good enough for those dash and grabs. It’ll be able to slow the thief down and possibly make them lose interest.

At the front of the RAPiD Gun Safe is the discreet tempered glass front display panel which contains an RFID reader, clock display, access code keypad, and the backup battery panel. In talking about this panel, I should talk about how we would get access to the inside of the safe and there are three ways to do so. First, the safe comes with a set of tubular keys. These are used to open the safe from the back if you so choose and as a backup when it is not possible to use the other methods. The next way to open the safe is by using the access code keypad. This system allows for a 4-6 digit combination code to be set and used. Finally, we have the RFID reader that is hidden behind the clock display. This is used in conjunction with registered RFID tags to open this safe in the fastest way possible. Included with the RAPiD Gun Safe is one watchband tag, one key fob tag, and two stick-on decal tags. Hornady does offer various other RFID tag options at an additional cost but keep in mind that only 5 tags can be registered with this safe at a time.

Inside the safe, we get an interior dimension of 2.2"H x 9.2"W x 6.9"D. I do want to note that there is a rubber tray inside the drawer and I’m not sure if the listed interior dimension accounts for this as it does take up some space. The tray is removable but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend that because there is some visible wiring under it. There’s probably less chance of damage to the unit if the tray is used.

Now, this safe can of course be used for anything but as the name implies, it is intended to be a safe that gives users rapid access to their gun. For reference, here is a Glock 19 Gen 5 in the safe. As you can see, the 19 fits perfectly fine when the slide is pointing side to side. The 19 will not fit with slide pointing front to back. If you want to orientate a pistol pointing front to back, you’ll need something the size of a Glock 43X which is just a bit smaller than the exact width. Pistols smaller than the 43X will, of course, also fit. With the 43X, there’s a few millimeters of extra space on either end to get it in there comfortably. Left to right, there’s easily enough room for a Glock 17 or other similarly sized firearms. Now, I don’t have two Glock 19s to test but it doesn’t look like there’s enough space to fit two of those, at least comfortably. My Glock 43X and Glock 19 both fit in there but that does require some slower manipulation to not haphazardly bang them against each other. For my personal use, this is a one gun safe. The setup that I currently use it in isn’t the most ideal, but I think that if you have the nightstand stand space for this safe, it’ll be a great fast option for your home defense weapon if it were to be needed.

Moving to the back of the safe, we have two USB-A 2.0 outlets and a 12V power connector. In conjunction with 12V power, you can use 4 AA batteries to provide backup power in case there is a power outage.

Overall, I really like this safe but there are a few things that I want to bring up. First is the front access code keypad. Not that it doesn’t work, I just don’t like it that there are numbers visible. The numbers just throw things off when you look at the front panel and make the unit look less like a clock and more so like there’s possibly more to this device. The number pad makes the safe less inconspicuous. I would’ve much preferred the dot system that Hornady uses with the RAPiD Vehicle Safe. However, in a dash a grab, thieves may not have the time to be paying too much attention to make that distinction. But, that’s a gamble that I’d rather not have to take.

Another thing that can be changed is the drawer opening system. When the safe is unlocked, the drawer automatically comes out and this is because there is a spring at the back of the drawer. It is compressed when the drawer is closed so when it opens, the spring decompressed and pushes the drawer out. However, the drawer is only partially opened by itself. The user still has to fully pull the drawer out in order to access the firearm. In a situation where seconds matter, I would just like it more if the drawer were to completely open by itself and I can get whatever is in there right away.

My next issue is with the program button. This button sits at the back of the drawer and is used to program the RFID tags and touch code. The various instructions say to press and release this button to activate it but from my experience, the button doesn’t really respond to press and releases. Most of the time it doesn’t activate and to get it going, I have to press and hold. This can be problematic as there are other functions of the button that utilizes press and holds. So, using this button isn’t exactly intuitive. Maybe it’s just this particular unit that’s having issues, I don’t know. I just know that mine isn’t working as intended.

My last annoyance would be with the safe’s programming that deals with deleting previously registered RFID tags. The way that this safe is set up, you cannot delete just one registered RFID tag. They all get deleted at the same time. So if you have 5 tags registered and only want to delete one, you can’t do that. You’ll have to delete them all and re-register the tags you want to use again. It’s just a clumsy way to go at it but at least this is likely not something most users will have to deal with over and over again. It’s more so a set it and forget it approach and in that sense, this is more so an annoyance than a real issue.

Again, I like the RAPiD Gun Safe overall. It provides me with a low key way to store my firearms and if you’re looking for something similar, this safe is a definite recommend.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.


Hornady RAPiD Gun Safe https://amzn.to/3qk6aLH
Hornady RAPiD Vehicle Safe https://amzn.to/30iraI7

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Lexol All Leather Cleaner & Conditioner

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In this post, we are going to address a point of auto detailing that I consider to be very important and that is leather cleaning and condition. If you think about it, leather interiors take quite a beating. If you have leather seats or a leather steering wheel, they get used every time the car is driven. Then you have dashes and other panels that constantly take hits from UV rays. These are obviously things that all interiors deal with but leather is much more susceptible to damage than synthetic materials. Because of this, we have to really take the time to treat the leather if we want it to last a long time.

Over the last few years, I’ve been using leather-focused products from Lexol. This is a brand commonly associated with leather and is known to produce good products.

To get started, let’s first take a look at the products that I’ll be using. Lexol has numbered their products to make it easy to understand the order that they should be used in. First is the All Leather Cleaner. As you can probably tell by the name, this product is used to first clean the leather. Then it is followed up by the All Leather Conditioner. This product will treat the leather and leave behind a trace layer of protectant.

Starting off with the All Leather Cleaner. I personally apply some of it into a microfiber towel and massage it into the leather. I generally do not go too long or let my leather get too soiled so they never need a deep cleaning. Some minor wipes with the cleaner and a towel generally suffice. If you have really dirty leather, you may have to buy a leather brush or use something a little more abrasive. I would advise buying a leather-specific brush as you can definitely cause some damage if you use something too stiff. Also, as with all never before used products, you should test it out in an inconspicuous area to make sure that the materials are compatible. Once the cleaner has been thoroughly used, we take a second towel and wipe away the excess. The instructions say to use a damp towel and follow up with a dry towel but I’ve personally always just used a single dry towel for this step. Not saying that you should do that as I’m just some guy on the internet. You probably should follow the directions.

Next, we move on to the All Leather Conditioner. Application of this product is essentially the same as with the All Leather Cleaner,. We rub it into the leather and wipe off any excess. To apply the conditioner, I like to use an applicator pad. The particular one I use is from Chemical Guys and I like these pads because they do the job and are pretty cheap. You can get them for around a dollar each. I like to use the applicator pad because it gives me more control and I want that for this step. Once the conditioner has been applied, the instruction says to let it sit for a few minutes then wipe off any excess. This wait time is to allow the conditioner to soak into the leather. However, I find that the wait time is largely dependent on weather. If you’re doing this on a hot day, the leather is going to soak the conditioner up a lot faster than on a cold day. Just keep that in mind. You can’t really go wrong with this process. When there’s excess, it’s pretty obvious. If everything looks dry but there’s a few spots that look wet and shiny, just hit those spots with a clean towel and you’re good. Also, pay attention to the seems and stitching as product tend to pool in those areas.

And that’s it. The process to clean and condition leather is fairly straightforward and easy. At least it is with this line of Lexol products. The only thing that I want to note is for you to do some research and find out what part of your interior is actually leather. With modern cars, there’s a lot of materials that are used that may look like leather but are actually some sort of synthetic material. Even in my Supra, there’s a lot of surfaces that look and feel like leather but it was confirmed that only the seats and steering wheel are actually leather. Applying leather products to non-leather surfaces may or may not damage them. There’s no telling without testing but this isn’t necessarily something that I want to test in case the worse were to occur. Again, do a little research about the interior of your vehicle.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Lexol Conditioner Cleaner Kit https://amzn.to/2NKZlp6

Lexol Leather Conditioner https://amzn.to/2ZYoVJO

Lexol Leather Cleaner https://amzn.to/3r3DFmr

Chemical Guys Microfiber Applicator Pads https://amzn.to/3r8rpkU

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Most Underrated Paint Protection Coating - Nanoskin Super-Charger

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I previously made a video showcasing Nanoskin Super-Charger. At the time, I said that for the price of about $5-$6 a bottle, if this coating lasts a month I’d completely be happy with it and would be willing to buy more. Well, I made an update video one month after applying the coating and it still looked good so that was a pass.

I used up the original bottle that I purchased pretty quickly and I wanted more. However, instead of buying the 16 oz bottle again, I decided to pick up the 1-gallon concentrate. The great thing about the concentrate is that Nanoskin recommends mixing it at 100:1. This means that for the $50 to $60 that the gallon concentrate costs, you can mix up to 129 gallons of usable solution, which in turn saves a tremendous amount of money over the 16 oz bottle and provides me with a seemingly limitless amount of product. I mean if the chemicals don’t go bad, I realistically have a lifetime supply of this stuff. And if you do go through a ridiculous amount of the stuff, Nanoskin also offers Supercharger in a 5-gallon jug and a 55-gallon drum. The savings per ounce goes up with every larger size but you have to detail at a ridiculous rate to be able to use up all the product.

Again, I’ve already made a few videos dedicated to this product so you can go ahead and watch those videos if you want to see how it performs in my initial testings. Here, I just want to add on and tell you the values that I see in a product like this.

First off, Nanoskin SuperCharger is a touchless sealant. To use this product, all we have to do is spray it onto a vehicle’s wet surface and then rinse it off. That’s it! Touchless sealants are the easiest to apply paint protection coatings and are my absolute favorite. I personally like to auto detail but I don’t like to do it for the pure act of auto detailing. I do it for the results and benefits of the products used. If I don’t have to waste a bunch of time applying a paint protection coating, I’m not going to do it. Supercharger is so quick to apply that I can literally apply it to an entire car in minutes. Whether it’s a Smart car or an F450, the entire vehicle can be coated in minutes, not hours.

That being said, this is not the type of coating that you should be looking towards for the best of durability. From my experience, this coating will provide a few months of protection but the length of time really depends on what you consider adequate. I personally left the first application on the Corolla that I applied it to for 6 months and I was ok with it. But now that I have the concentrate and so much usable product, I can use it after every wash because the application process is so quick. If I happen to see the coating slow down just a bit, the car’s getting another application. For me, this is a monthly coating at least but again that’s not necessarily because of performance, but because I have a lot to go through.

Now, Nanoskin Supercharger can be used as a standalone coating or as a maintenance topper for a more durable base coating. I personally use it both ways. If I’m coating a daily driver or a beater that I don’t necessarily care about, Supercharger is used as a standalone base coating. This is because I don’t care to waste the time to coat these cars with say a ceramic coating that’ll take a few hours to apply. I’d rather just use my touchless sealant and get the coating process over with. It’ll do an adequate job with UV protection and that’s all I care about. When the coating diminishes, I’ll just apply more.

Moving to a car that I care about that already has a more durable base coating, I’m going to use Supercharger as a topper to maintain my base coating and to make it last as long as possible. With this Supra, I’ve applied Adam’s Graphene Ceramic Coating. This coating has an advertised 7 years of durability. Whether that’s true is another story but I’m going to maintain it to get the most out of my investment.

Overall, I think Nanoskin Supercharger is a fantastic product. For the price and ease of use, I really think that this is the most underrated paint protection coating out there. Supercharger is such a huge part of my auto detailing regimen and I’m so glad to have found it. This product easily gets a recommendation from me. Pick up the smaller bottle. See how you feel about it and maybe invest in the concentrate later. With all the positives that Super-Charger provides, it’s definitely worth checking out.

If you're considering buying any of the products mentioned, please support my work by using the links below.

Nanoskin Ultra Line Super-Charger 16oz https://amzn.to/2NnCQpO

Nanoskin SuperCharger 1 Gallon Concentrate https://amzn.to/2ZdZjZ6

Nanoskin SuperCharger 5 Gallon Concentrate https://amzn.to/3d8181H

Nanoskin SuperCharger 30 Gallon Concentrate https://amzn.to/3tO0uwp

Nanoskin SuperCharger 55 Gallon Concentrate https://amzn.to/3d89tSZ

All the Auto Detailing Equipment I Use: https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AF43XRPGVOUH2E5CJXQY4FIOGVAQ/3AI3XVAQEMORX?type=explore&ref=idea_cp_vl_ov_d

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