It’s finally time to protect the exterior of the Supra and I’ve decided to do it with Ethos Car Care’s Ceramic Wax Pro.

I’m going to show you the steps that I took to prep the Supra’s finish in order to get the best possible results from Ceramic Wax Pro and some things that I learned during this process.

I’m going to start with a pre-wash and that means foaming the vehicle. For this, I’m using 2 ounces of Ethos Car Care’s Foam Party to the fourth fill line of my Tool Daily or Trinova Foam Cannon. This foam cannon typically requires 4 ounces of product but Foam Party provides so much suds that this isn’t necessary. 2 ounces may not provide as thick of foam as 4 ounces, but the foam clings better and sticks around longer. This is a trade-off that works for me as someone who details outside and often works in direct sunlight. Realistically, 2 ounces of Foam Party is equivalent to 4 ounces of the other products that I’ve used anyway so I’m not missing out on anything. This has actually become my go-to foaming soap. I’ve used it so much that I’m almost out of the 16 oz bottle and will need a gallon next time!

Next, I’m going to continue with a contact wash. For this, I’ll be using Chemical Guys Mr. Pink. For this step, I was looking for a plain soap that doesn’t contain additional additives because the goal is to prep the surface and strip it of any form of protection. I want it as bare as possible so I need a bare-bones soap. Mr. Pink provides me with this. However, if you watched my dedicated Mr. Pink video, you’d know that I don’t think that this is the best contact wash soap. In my opinion, it just doesn’t provide a lot of lubricity and I have to add extra product to get something satisfactory. For this video, I used about 7 ounces of soap to 4 gallons of water. Mr. Pink is meant to be a cheap product but if I have to use more than usual, it ends up costing more. I originally purchased a one-gallon jug and am working my way through it. Once I’m out, I probably will not be buying any more.

Now that the surface is clean and is rid of the obvious dirt and debris, I need to work on getting rid of the stuff that can’t necessarily be seen. I’m going to start by chemically decontaminating the surface with Adam’s Iron Remover. This step will help to dissolve away iron particles that may have embedded themselves in the paint. Iron removers typically have a color-changing formula. In this case, it starts out as orange and turns a purplish color to indicated the presence of the contaminants. This Supra definitely needed this because it is covered in those little orange rust spots from brake dust. I recently picked up a pressurized sprayer from Harbor Freight and have been waiting for a complete exterior chemical decontamination to bust it out. In the past, I would use a normal sprayer with a finger trigger and that works but when you’re doing an entire car, it just becomes very tedious. But as it turns out, this sprayer sucks. It works pretty well when I’m actually using it, but when I put it down, it leaks from the nozzle as if it’s still slowly spraying. You’re supposed to be able to release pressure by pulling up on the pump handle but that doesn’t do anything so the nozzle just leaks. I ended up wasting a lot of iron remover so I decided to just empty out the sprayer in my old hand sprayer and finish the job with that. Funny enough, the hand spray started to break down too. The trigger would only spring back half way so the job took twice as many pumps.

After chemical decontamination comes mechanical decontamination. This involves claying the surface. For this, I brought out another new toy, a Nanoskin Autoscrub Wash Mitt and it is a clay bar alternative. To lube the mitt, I used Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze Final Inspection. With the clay baring stage, we are looking to remove any leftover contaminants. If you’ve ever run your hands across the surface of a vehicle and felt bumps or a gritty texture, then it’s time to clay bar. The clay itself is tacky and is able pull the contaminants out of the paint, leaving it smooth as glass. This Supra isn’t overly contaminated but it’s just good practice to clean the surface to the best of our abilities in order to give the paint protection the best chance of clinging on to the surface.

Now that I’ve fully decontaminated the vehicle, the paint is very clean but there’s a problem. Mirror Glaze in itself contains additives. We can see it in effect by the fact that there’s water beading on the paint. If this surface were completely bare, there would very likely be some very slow water sheeting. So, we now have to strip the Final Inspection. To do this, I used Chemical Guys Wipe Out. This is an isopropyl alcohol mixture and it’ll strip the surface of any remaining oils and residues. Again, we want the surface as bare as possible.

Finally, we are ready to apply Ceramic Wax Pro. Application of this product should be relatively easy. We apply it to the included foam applicator and spread it on the surface. Once the product dries, we buff it off with a clean microfiber towel. Simple enough. When talking to Tim, the founder of Ethos Car Care, he advised me to apply very thin coats. By thin, we’re talking about 2-3 drops for the hood and if used properly, a 16oz bottle of Ceramic Wax Pro can cover 4-5 cars with multiple coats. Now, I’ll be the first to admit that I typically have a pretty heavy hand when it comes to this kind of stuff. I don’t know if you’re paying attention but I’m using well over 2-3 drops for the hood. In all honesty, I have no idea how one would be able to spread 2-3 drops across an entire hood, but that’s just me. Again, I’m pretty heavy-handed but let’s just hope that more isn’t a major detriment in this case. This is also my first time using a foam applicator and I wanted to point somethings out for those planning on going this route. After you use the foam applicator for a while, it’ll start to retain the Ceramic Wax Pro. It may not look like it, but there’s a lot of product in between the foam. You can take the applicator, dab it on the surface and product will continue to come out. Knowing this, you won’t have to waste as much product. Also be careful because if you go over gaps or hard edges, there’s a good chance that some product will be lodged in between. Depending on where this happens, it could be close to impossible to completely clean the area. On the Supra, I applied Ceramic Wax Pro to all surfaces except for the matte black bumper diffusers and side skirts. I was told that because this product is wax base, it will leave a residue if applied to plastics or trim. Other than this, it’s good for any glossy surfaces such as paint, headlights, and glass. I applied two coats of Ceramic Wax Pro with one hour in between coats as instructed by Tim.

And there you have it, Ethos Car Care’s Ceramic Wax Pro applied to my Toyota Supra. In terms of first impressions, I can’t say much because I’ve only just applied the coating. What I can say is that this product provides crazy gloss and provides really good water beading and sheeting capabilities. Only time will tell how it holds up. This post is mainly meant to show my application process. If you’ve been with this channel, you’d know that I like to provide long term real-world reviews of paint protection products and I’ll be doing the same for Ceramic Wax Pro. I’ll periodically make update videos to show you guys how the coating has held up after some real-world use. Make sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel and turn on notifications so you don’t miss those videos when they come out.